[AussieNitro]

Hi guys I'm about to a 790, bought an ex-demo RC390 18 mths ago that used to throw error codes n battery didn't seem to charge - so wired an eBay V-link wifi obd2 reader in to check n clear codes found low voltage would cause errors so replaced battery with Powersport Lithium Battery problem stayed away after that. My guess is KTM ECU's a very voltage sensitive n either dealers don't charge batteries correctly or floor stock bikes loose voltage n don't properly recover.

 

[colombo]

Hi guys I'm about to a 790, bought an ex-demo RC390 18 mths ago that used to throw error codes n battery didn't seem to charge - so wired an eBay V-link wifi obd2 reader in to check n clear codes found low voltage would cause errors so replaced battery with Powersport Lithium Battery problem stayed away after that. My guess is KTM ECU's a very voltage sensitive n either dealers don't charge batteries correctly or floor stock bikes loose voltage n don't properly recover.

Yeah I had the IMM failure happen only once very early on (likes 300 miles). I probably put it on a tender around then and never thought about it. Never had the problem since.

 

[Blwnbyu]

I think I can help with this issue.. When I was installing my Tail Tidy, I had thrown my wash plug under the pillion seat and I ended up getting the immobilizer error. I messed and messed with the bike and could not get it to start (this was with 5 miles on the odo).. After removing the wash plug from under the seat and jiggling all of the relays in front of the fuse box, we heard a pop and the bike fired right up.. I feel the relays are SUPER SENSITIVE to lose connections.. Next time this happens to anyone, try wiggling all of the relays with the key on... Look forward to seeing if this helps anyone else..

 

[W1d0]

[QUOTE = "anotheronetoday, post: 3562, miembro: 166"]
ACC 1 y ACC2
UNO ESTÁ EN TODO EL TIEMPO EL OTRO CON IGNICIÓN
[/CITAR]
Correcto 1 siempre tiene corriente, el 2 solo con llave de contacto, si la bateria esta deteriorada o muy baja da el fallo del inmobilizador

 

[WhiteDogBE]

I have had this issue for the first time today on my 2018 790 (EU). AFAIK it doesn't even have a immobilizer fitted?

I use the bike daily to commute under normal circumstances. Now I've only went one a ride once in the last 3 months (last time 4 weeks ago) because law forbid rec diving. Fuel was low and old.

Had to try 3 times to get the bike started. No other warning lights, just the Immobilizer thing and Bluetooth (KTM My Ride) shut off. Drove to the dealer a few km away. Shut the bike off and it started right away but the error was still there. Went in at the dealer but to look at it they are obligated to wait 24 hours first.

Anyway, went out 10 min later and the error was gone. Went on a ride for an hour or 2 and stopped a few times to try and start, no issues. Battery is currently at 14.3V in the display. I don't use a (trickle) charger anymore as they only mask any real issues imho.

Leaning towards it being a low battery thing and hope it stays away. With all my previous bikes (non KTM) I insisted to have a new battery installed every 3 years cause that's when they usually start to fail.

 

[L8-apex]

Odds are it was certainly a low battery.

 

[Last Minute]

I've had this as well. My battery voltage was only at 11.7v after not riding for a while. I've charged the battery and it hasn't occurred again..

 

[letsgo]

I've had this as well. My battery voltage was only at 11.7v after not riding for a while. I've charged the battery and it hasn't occurred again..

 

[648]

Reply?

 

[letsgo]

Reply?

I'm not sure I'm in the right section for what I am asking, so if I'm not, sorry, but I hope someone can help. I got the low voltage light, and when I turned the bike off, it would not restart. Checked the battery with a multi meter and in the menu section and both showed 11.4 v. Charged the battery, and got it started. With the multi meter connected and in checking the menu on the bike, it appears the battery is not charging. Installed a fresh new, known good battery just to see if it made any difference and it did not. I purchased by bike in Nov. 2019. Installed a Coober ECM, Wings pipe and Yoshimura fender eliminator kit. The bike seemed fine, but I never had any reason to check to see if it was charging. Have kept it on a charger, started it once a week, etc. I have 300 miles, most of which were put on over the last 6 weeks. I have checked all my connections to the new Coober ECU and can't find anything not connected. I am thinking stator or voltage regulator, but the bike only has 300 miles on it! I know if I need to take the bike back to the dealer, to have it sit there for a month in line, I probably should remove the Coober ECU. Any ideas? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks, Mike

 

[Pat rides]

I'm not sure I'm in the right section for what I am asking, so if I'm not, sorry, but I hope someone can help. I got the low voltage light, and when I turned the bike off, it would not restart. Checked the battery with a multi meter and in the menu section and both showed 11.4 v. Charged the battery, and got it started. With the multi meter connected and in checking the menu on the bike, it appears the battery is not charging. Installed a fresh new, known good battery just to see if it made any difference and it did not. I purchased by bike in Nov. 2019. Installed a Coober ECM, Wings pipe and Yoshimura fender eliminator kit. The bike seemed fine, but I never had any reason to check to see if it was charging. Have kept it on a charger, started it once a week, etc. I have 300 miles, most of which were put on over the last 6 weeks. I have checked all my connections to the new Coober ECU and can't find anything not connected. I am thinking stator or voltage regulator, but the bike only has 300 miles on it! I know if I need to take the bike back to the dealer, to have it sit there for a month in line, I probably should remove the Coober ECU. Any ideas? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks, Mike

Hi, this seems to be a dealer issue, now I know that mine would work on my bike on warranty even if I have any type off ECU connected, don’t know about yours. Here is 2 questions to help you;

1. Since went did you installed your Coober box?
2. With a fully charged battery and bike running, what voltage do you get?

This is a small battery so if the stator doesn’t work you won’t go for long.

 

[letsgo]

Hi, this seems to be a dealer issue, now I know that mine would work on my bike on warranty even if I have any type off ECU connected, don’t know about yours. Here is 2 questions to help you;

1. Since went did you installed your Coober box?
2. With a fully charged battery and bike running, what voltage do you get?

This is a small battery so if the stator doesn’t work you won’t go for long.

Thanks so much for the response. Hope others will chime in. So....Yes, it did show up about 100 miles after I installed the Coober box, but I think it's just a coincidence. I think because I always had the bike on a trickle charger when not riding, that the battery never got low enough to send the low voltage message. The screen, and a multi meter both show 12 V and fall slowly as the bike runs. Definitely no charging going on. I looked up others who had installed the Coober and they had no issues. Also contacted place I purchased the unit, as they also do installs, and they have had on issues. They said the Coober box should not change anything to do with the charging system, but who knows. I should really go back and remove the Coober ECU and put everything back stock, then check to see if it's charging, but trying to avoid all that work when I feel it's something else.

 

[Pat rides]

The screen, and a multi meter both show 12 V and fall slowly as the bike runs. Definitely no charging going on.

You are right no charging and I would be really surprised that the Coober is the issue. Know like I said i don’t now how you fell about your dealer but you should call them up first, so it is up to you if you want to remove the Coober box, i wouldn’t before the call 🤔
Good luck and keep us inform.
N.B. If you are not sure where to right your post you can start a new discussion and if you are not correct the admin will gently tell you and fix it if necessary.

 

[Matt Fogarty]

Hey Folks

Bought a used 2019 790 Duke with 3500 miles on it last week. 200 miles and 6 days later had the immobilizer failure error. Bike was warming up on a damp morning. 3 blocks from house bike stalled once, restarted right away, then flashed the error message. So definitely not a heat issue...though it was damp. Was at 3 bars on temp gauge. I can't get into the shop for diag's till 10-2-20.

Does anyone have any more up to date info on this error/problems with immobilizer? Nervous to have a potential gremlin so soon after buying

 

[648]

Hey Folks

Bought a used 2019 790 Duke with 3500 miles on it last week. 200 miles and 6 days later had the immobilizer failure error. Bike was warming up on a damp morning. 3 blocks from house bike stalled once, restarted right away, then flashed the error message. So definitely not a heat issue...though it was damp. Was at 3 bars on temp gauge. I can't get into the shop for diag's till 10-2-20.

Does anyone have any more up to date info on this error/problems with immobilizer? Nervous to have a potential gremlin so soon after buying

Read the last half a dozen posts above yours.. Some are suggesting lower battery levels help throw the code.

 

[Matt Fogarty]

JD. Thanks. New here and appreciate the help tremendously. I did reread those and see what your saying. If I can ask a noob question about the voltage. When I turned key on today after not riding for a day, it’s sitting at 12.1V. Crank the engine and it jumps to 14.4. So looks like it’s getting charge. Kill engine/leave key on and it quickly ticks back down to 12.3. Do you think that’s enough of a drop to have triggered the code? (which I have not been able to replicate BTW). Or is that to be expected when not running but ignition on? My sense is that would be.

 

[AussieNitro]

JD. Thanks. New here and appreciate the help tremendously. I did reread those and see what your saying. If I can ask a noob question about the voltage. When I turned key on today after not riding for a day, it’s sitting at 12.1V. Crank the engine and it jumps to 14.4. So looks like it’s getting charge. Kill engine/leave key on and it quickly ticks back down to 12.3. Do you think that’s enough of a drop to have triggered the code? (which I have not been able to replicate BTW). Or is that to be expected when not running but ignition on? My sense is that would be.

I replaced the std battery with a Lithium SSB fixed a similar problem on my RC390
So because I purchased my '18 790 in April '20 (brand new) I ordered a Lithium SSB to be on the safe side and reduce sum weight from the bike as a bonus.

 

[The Animal]

I also had immobilizer warnings...battery was crap. Went lithium (Antigravity) and no more issues.

 

[Andre Bras]

Hey 👋

When I started reading this thread, I could not believe it because it seemed so different from what I was experiencing. I was not experiencing failures in traffic or hot weather, quite the contrary. Every time I picked up my bike after a couple of days, it would sometimes shut down immediately or after a couple of seconds, and sometimes the revs would go crazy. At the shop, they could not figure out what was going on!

With no options left, I thought to myself it would not harm to try changing the battery. It's now a month since I changed it, works perfectly! Zero issues.
I bought the Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP, and I recommend everyone with similar issues to at least try it. It can save you a lot of headaches! 🙌

THANK YOU, EVERYONE!

Battery model: Batería de Litio Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP 98.339996337891€

 

[dma]

Hey 👋

When I started reading this thread, I could not believe it because it seemed so different from what I was experiencing. I was not experiencing failures in traffic or hot weather, quite the contrary. Every time I picked up my bike after a couple of days, it would sometimes shut down immediately or after a couple of seconds, and sometimes the revs would go crazy. At the shop, they could not figure out what was going on!

With no options left, I thought to myself it would not harm to try changing the battery. It's now a month since I changed it, works perfectly! Zero issues.
I bought the Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP, and I recommend everyone with similar issues to at least try it. It can save you a lot of headaches! 🙌

THANK YOU, EVERYONE!

Battery model: Batería de Litio Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP 98.339996337891€

Glad you got it sorted with a decent (lightweight) battery @Andre Bras.

Just wondered if the HJTZ10S-FP the same dimension as the OEM battery?