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Just got my bike back recently from a large repair job after being rear-ended at a street light. Nice sunny day, go to start the bike... Immobilizer Failure!

Well, they didn't replace the battery, and it is stock, so maybe time to upgrade. We'll see, battery's on the tender now...
Get it load tested!! Even if you charge in battery tender and multimeter reads good, it may not handle load. Also you can change TFT to display battery voltage before starting bike, press start while closely viewing or recording with video the display voltage, and if drops below 10 and definitely below 9.7, then get new batter m battery
 
That cannot be the case (battery needing replacing ) as I just purchased a new one and still get the warning sign flashing

Any other leads on what may cause the flashing 'immobilizer failure ' signal to appear ?
Advice above does not say replace the battery. Get it load tested. If you still have problem with new battery fitted, advice is still to get new battery load tested first.
If battery tests ok, then you move on to further testing. There are a few possible causes besides low voltage, like faulty key chip, reader coil, imm control unit, bad programming, interference, etc. You could also still have low voltage issue with a good battery, like high starter current draw or bad wiring.
 
So I'm getting this immobilizer failure light from time to time as I have been working on the bike . Every time after I disconnected the battery and connected back up , first start or 2 I would get it, and now I had the service (for oil change) light come on and the immobilizer failure came on and when I cleared the service light the other went away with it . This is sooo weird and it bothers me . It seems like the immobilizer circuit is tied to everything on this bike , I really wish I could delete it altogether!! If someone wants my bike they can probably figure a way to get it , this thing is more of an inconvenience than a help. Any feed back on my issue would be great. Thanks.
 
So I'm getting this immobilizer failure light from time to time as I have been working on the bike . Every time after I disconnected the battery and connected back up , first start or 2 I would get it, and now I had the service (for oil change) light come on and the immobilizer failure came on and when I cleared the service light the other went away with it . This is sooo weird and it bothers me . It seems like the immobilizer circuit is tied to everything on this bike , I really wish I could delete it altogether!! If someone wants my bike they can probably figure a way to get it , this thing is more of an inconvenience than a help. Any feed back on my issue would be great. Thanks.
Put new Battery if you are unable to load test your current one. I bet if resolves the problem. Don't loose Faith just yet
 
So - Today I have the immob failure light. Started in the garage with no issues. Short 2km ride to fill the tank. And after filling up - "Immob Failure" at start.

Tried cycling to no avail. But the bike starts and runs. I did have it refuse to start (chattering starter - but no alerts!) about 2 weeks ago so I am inclined to believe the battery is on its way out. It's the original Haijiu and I have a very early 790D so the battery is probably 5 years old. In fact today's run was honestly to see if the bike started and ran with the battery.

Battery now out and I'll test voltage over the next couple of days. I bet it drops to just over 12V. Will keep the post updated.
 
I got the immoblizer light one time. I immediately replaced the battery and have had no issues. To many threads about bad stock batteries. Worked for me. :)
Yup - New battery is on it's way. The old one has been losing voltage (albeit slowly) despite being disconnected.

Ordered a Noco (NLP14) as
1) They had next day (today) delivery.
2) They had next day (today) delivery.

I'll make a custom spacer up - and having read @QCS report - I will also fit a more suitable terminal post (I have some from a MotoBatt in my Old Guzzi),

Was not going to go the Lithium route but I am on leave this week - And I'd rather be out and about than roam local bike shops for a GOOD battery that fits.
Cheap ones everywhere as they are the same as a lot of the cheap Korean 125cc scooters.
Today I have to go out in the car to collect a mate's seat from the upholsterer so no pining today. Well OK some, but not a lot.

I will open the OEM up as I am keen to look in there. But The message was clear - 'tis about to die.
 
I ordered a tried and true Yuasa battery online. It came in a few days.
An "online" Yuasa was my plan. But was not going to arrive until Monday at the earliest - And I would not be about to take receipt (you know - work).

The Noco came late yesterday and is in. Not yet used in anger as the Missus is still asleep.

The Original (disconnected) has lost 0.1V /day - it's a sort of yukky day today, so I'll open it up and see. Will it confirm or confound my suspicions?
 
Was not going to go the Lithium route but I am on leave this week - And I'd rather be out and about than roam local bike shops for a GOOD battery that fits.
I think you will be happy wqith it. For me, the price difference from branded lead batteries, such as Yuasa, was not that high.
 
- it's a sort of yukky day today, so I'll open it up and see. Will it confirm or confound my suspicions?
OK - Opened up and as suspected the cells show no liquid above the plates.

This is one of my pet hates about most (Car & Bike) modern "maintenance free" batteries. The aqueous acid gives off gas (electrolysis of the water) as it's charged. This escapes through the breathers (not a lot of it granted) and there is no way to replenish the liquid. Once the plates are not fully covered then there is less capacitance in the battery. And on modern vehicles which seem to change at higher voltage - the effect is exacerbated. My guess is that 70% of all Lead/batteries are swapped out way before natural EOL.

Going off track a bit - I noticed some useful LiFePO4 cells yesterday. 4aH with sustained 180A discharge and 300A pulse discharge, A123 Systems 32113. It would be dead easy to cobble up a seriously good STARTER battery for little. I'm looking for a good suitable BMS. I have a homemade LiFePO4 I made with A123 cells (8aH) that are well over 13 years old. Holds a steady 13.2V and discharges 560A - I did have one twice as large. It smoked (literally) a Bosch Starter Motor.
 
I think you will be happy wqith it. For me, the price difference from branded lead batteries, such as Yuasa, was not that high.
I am sure I will be - ;). And importantly the next owner will be too.

Not actually put the 790D up for sale yet (still debating the issue) - but I'm simply not using it since getting the V85TT.
 
I had the immobiliser warning come up a couple of times under specific circumstances...

Once was after stalling and the other after trying to pull away with the side stand down, when the engine cuts. I immediately tried to restart and the starter motor sounded like it was struggling but the engine started, just, and the screen then displayed the immobiliser warning. I don't even think I've got an immobiliser, so I'm putting this down to low system voltage, so low that the bike electronics/TFTs internal regulator couldn't hold the necessary voltage required by the CPU and it caused it to go AWOL, throwing a random error in the process.

After the next clean off/on, everything was good. My guess is that when the engine stops unexpectedly, the compression is higher for some reason (unburnt charge?) and harder to crank. I believe my battery may be original, and hence nearly 5 years old. Has had one session plugged in to my ancient Optimate ;)
 
I don't even think I've got an immobiliser,
You do. It's part of the ignition system. The key has a passive RFID inside and the antenna is just behind the headstock.

Important also to realize that Lead Acid batteries will drop voltage as they discharge - tending to feed amps more continuously. LiFePO4 however you will see maintain volts but you can audibly hear them drain down as the energy is drawn out.

Depending on how long you've been riding when you stalled - it is perfectly possible that the charging system has not had sufficient time to recharge the battery with the energy used up starting. And as the battery ages - it's capacity to be recharged dwindles too. The real solution is a multi stage R/R that charges at set voltages ramping up slowly and then backing off a bit - this charges the battery better - but they can be HIDEOUSLY expensive.

Oddly we've had a similar issue on the Wife's car. Immob fail - replace battery and solved.
 
Had the dreaded immobilizer warning on the dash today, but not the battery I feel.

When I inserted the key I turned it to release the steering lock, but didn't depress the key, and it was stiff turning, and clicked, then moved to ignition on, and got the warning, ignition off and on, still the same, so I put the ignition lock back on, and properly released it by depressing the key, and ignition was fine, tested several times during, and post ride, and all good.

Maybe some issues are ignition key/ lock related.
 
Had the same on a newly bought second hand 790, 2019 6000km. KTM replaced the battery but I had again key, then immobilizer issue which trigger disabling traction control and all the rest. both of the times this happened it was after standing at a traffic light in a hot day (25-28 degrees Celsius).
 
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