KTM 790 Duke Forum banner
141 - 158 of 158 Posts

·
Registered
'19 790 Duke, '20 RC 390
Joined
·
14 Posts
I also had immobilizer warnings...battery was crap. Went lithium (Antigravity) and no more issues.
 

·
Registered
KTM 790 DUKE 2019
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey 👋

When I started reading this thread, I could not believe it because it seemed so different from what I was experiencing. I was not experiencing failures in traffic or hot weather, quite the contrary. Every time I picked up my bike after a couple of days, it would sometimes shut down immediately or after a couple of seconds, and sometimes the revs would go crazy. At the shop, they could not figure out what was going on!

With no options left, I thought to myself it would not harm to try changing the battery. It's now a month since I changed it, works perfectly! Zero issues.
I bought the Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP, and I recommend everyone with similar issues to at least try it. It can save you a lot of headaches! 🙌

THANK YOU, EVERYONE!

Battery model: Batería de Litio Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP 98.339996337891€
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Hey 👋

When I started reading this thread, I could not believe it because it seemed so different from what I was experiencing. I was not experiencing failures in traffic or hot weather, quite the contrary. Every time I picked up my bike after a couple of days, it would sometimes shut down immediately or after a couple of seconds, and sometimes the revs would go crazy. At the shop, they could not figure out what was going on!

With no options left, I thought to myself it would not harm to try changing the battery. It's now a month since I changed it, works perfectly! Zero issues.
I bought the Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP, and I recommend everyone with similar issues to at least try it. It can save you a lot of headaches! 🙌

THANK YOU, EVERYONE!

Battery model: Batería de Litio Skyrich HJTZ10S-FP 98.339996337891€
Glad you got it sorted with a decent (lightweight) battery @Andre Bras.

Just wondered if the HJTZ10S-FP the same dimension as the OEM battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
It's a little smaller (height) than the original battery.
Thanks for the info - good to know that it fits ok in the battery space. I did wonder whether it was narrower / shorter too so would need some packing around the edges, but sounds like it doesn't.

I have a tiny Skyrich in one of my other bikes - it's so much lighter than a traditional battery!
 

·
Registered
KTM 790 DUKE 2019
Joined
·
5 Posts
Thanks for the info - good to know that it fits ok in the battery space. I did wonder whether it was narrower / shorter too so would need some packing around the edges, but sounds like it doesn't.

I have a tiny Skyrich in one of my other bikes - it's so much lighter than a traditional battery!
Definitely not narrower. The battery space has rubber around the edges, which makes it fit really tight, and it doesn't make much different being a bit shorter. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hello guys !

I had Immobilizer failure (and MTC, ...) very early on my bike (300 kms on the odo)
KTM changed the immobilizer, 3 locks and the 2 keys under warranty.

Now, i am sometimes facing "key failure"
Some times, it starts with the advertissment and sometimes it won'tstart ...

I bring my bike next week for the 1000 km service.
I told them about the problem by phone and they tell me the will reprogramm the two keys.

I will give you some details after !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hello,

The dealer programms the 2 keys and make a software update on my bike but unfortunately I still have Key errors ...
My battery is plugged on Optimate charger since day one so I m very disappointed.

Any advice ?
 

·
a d m i n .
Joined
·
151,008 Posts
Hello,

The dealer programms the 2 keys and make a software update on my bike but unfortunately I still have Key errors ...
My battery is plugged on Optimate charger since day one so I m very disappointed.

Any advice ?
Yikes! I have no input, but I am sorry for your trouble Wt the moto. I am sure others will give solid input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hi,
I Hope so 😉
Now, i'm thinking about the main harness.
The battery was tested good by my dealer.

It easily occured after I take the bike of my garage (i have to avert my car so i have to push my bike a few meters and turn the handlebar left and right)

In my garage, the bike is on track stand and the problem won't happen if i make ignition
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
I find it ridiculous that the bike actually shuts down with an 'immobilizer' issue. If it starts, it should continue running until ignition is turned off. At any rate, is this an issue with a certain VIN range, not determined yet, or totally random? I didn't think the 790 had an immobilizer, which is a real bummer. The Street Triple had the same issues.
 

·
Registered
21 Duke 890r
Joined
·
153 Posts
Hey Guys, Same issue here. It happens when the bike is initially started, doesnt shut off or anything just goes away. My question: Where does the battery supposed to read at? My battery is reading at 12.5 V per the Dashboard display.

Should I just get a new battery, whats the fix?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Hey Guys, Same issue here. It happens when the bike is initially started, doesnt shut off or anything just goes away. My question: Where does the battery supposed to read at? My battery is reading at 12.5 V per the Dashboard display.

Should I just get a new battery, whats the fix?!
I have had the same fault display. Strangely enough the first time it happened was when I removed the side stand and started the bike on the rear stand. On re-fitting everything the fault disappeared. Happened again when I loosened the stand to remove the cat and fit my arrow mid pipe. Went away after all back and after I worked the stand a bit. At this stage I was convinced the immobiliser referred to the side stand cut off switch. But the the ! appeared again a couple of days later on a cold morning start. I have not had it for a while now. A year back I fitted a Li battery that had seen three years service in my son's bike. Thinking it may be battery related now as this battery may be close to end of life.
 

·
Registered
21 Duke 890r
Joined
·
153 Posts
I have had the same fault display. Strangely enough the first time it happened was when I removed the side stand and started the bike on the rear stand. On re-fitting everything the fault disappeared. Happened again when I loosened the stand to remove the cat and fit my arrow mid pipe. Went away after all back and after I worked the stand a bit. At this stage I was convinced the immobiliser referred to the side stand cut off switch. But the the ! appeared again a couple of days later on a cold morning start. I have not had it for a while now. A year back I fitted a Li battery that had seen three years service in my son's bike. Thinking it may be battery related now as this battery may be close to end of life.
Bought a new battery and it went away!!! Thanks for the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Any conclusion as the etiology of the Immobilizer failure? Battery or the actual wire contacts in the immobilizer, or the harness? Whose got three latest info. Please update us all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,200 Posts
I have NOT had the failure but modern ECU dependent vehicles are VERY dependent on stable voltages. Any degradation of the power supply to "intelligent" components can and will cause intermittent functional issues. This is not an automotive issue. It's general to electronics.

1) Poor connection between terminals in a connection block.
2) Damaged wiring.

If the issue changes with rotation of the forks - suspect one of the above. Lock failures on some Buells were famously due to a cable routing issue that strained connector blocks and frayed wires internally. If you get interrupts whilst riding - it could be vibration causing open circuits as well.

3) EXCESSIVE HEAT - This can alter the internal resistance of electronics and wiring. This affects appreciated voltage. It's been reported, but I ride at over 40°C ambient in summer - and even in traffic have no issues.

4) Poor Battery. It does not have to be dead, or even close to death. I have used batteries rejected on ECU bikes on bikes with old fashioned points for years after ECU's declare them unstable.

5) Damaged immobilizer - sure it can happen - but I'd check the a fore mentioned first. Before you do - try with the other key. Just in case the key has been zapped by something.

Yes the Duke does have an immobiliser. It detects electronics in the key itself. IIRC one of the "race" components is a special KEY holder you fit under the tank with the key in. You can then simply bridge the ignition lock wires and remove the lock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I have NOT had the failure but modern ECU dependent vehicles are VERY dependent on stable voltages. Any degradation of the power supply to "intelligent" components can and will cause intermittent functional issues. This is not an automotive issue. It's general to electronics.

1) Poor connection between terminals in a connection block.
2) Damaged wiring.

If the issue changes with rotation of the forks - suspect one of the above. Lock failures on some Buells were famously due to a cable routing issue that strained connector blocks and frayed wires internally. If you get interrupts whilst riding - it could be vibration causing open circuits as well.

3) EXCESSIVE HEAT - This can alter the internal resistance of electronics and wiring. This affects appreciated voltage. It's been reported, but I ride at over 40°C ambient in summer - and even in traffic have no issues.

4) Poor Battery. It does not have to be dead, or even close to death. I have used batteries rejected on ECU bikes on bikes with old fashioned points for years after ECU's declare them unstable.

5) Damaged immobilizer - sure it can happen - but I'd check the a fore mentioned first. Before you do - try with the other key. Just in case the key has been zapped by something.

Yes the Duke does have an immobiliser. It detects electronics in the key itself. IIRC one of the "race" components is a special KEY holder you fit under the tank with the key in. You can then simply bridge the ignition lock wires and remove the lock.
Excellent write up. Very informative.. appreciate yuh ou
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I posted this on another thread but thought it good to post here as well::
"I did a load test on the stock battery . Stock battery (Haijiu) CCA 200 10Ah so carbon pile load tester used to apply 15seconds of load at 100 amp draw. Using multimeter and analog display on actual load tester from Harbor Freight, the voltage dropped to 8.6. On the bike, I captured the voltage dropping to 7.5 as I started bike and recorded TFT voltage display. New Yuasa battery was activated last night, charged overnight, and installed today. Looks like problem solved. My immobilizer failure warning was due to bad battery. If fails to remain fixed, I will be sure to update on forum. If any of you have not commented your experience with immobilizer failure and fix on this thread, please do so to help others"
 
141 - 158 of 158 Posts
Top