Just got it back today, new keys and immobilizer. runs all right. Im a little scared to install my austin racing rs 22 with the coober kit. I just dont want the electronics to **** on me again =\
Sound like a separate issue. I would guess it is the other way around. There is a problem that affects the rear wheel circuit on a warm bike and the ABS and/or ECU unit is identifies it and lets you know.Out of interest, has anybody with this issue noticed if the back wheel locks up at all, not whilst riding but after you've stopped or turned the bike off and on again? Kind of like a failsafe as the ABS failure flashes up, and as the bike cools it releases the wheel?
So it was the battery eh? Good to know... we have one of the confirmed sources.Brought my bike in for its 9300 mile service, and have them check on the intermittent immobilizer failure. It would only happen starting the bike from cold, and seemed to be getting harder and harder to start. It wouldn’t always fire on the first push of the button. Dealer called me during service and said the battery needed to be replaced, was surprised it needed one so soon, but had the battery replaced. Dealer said that the battery was the cause of the failure when starting from cold, when the bike was warm battery had enough juice to not trip the failure. Went out the this am to start the bike from cold and she fired right up and no failure, so I assume that was the problem. Only weird issue since I got the bike back the temp gauge reads 4 bars constantly, before service it was usually at 3 bars unless it was slow then go to 4 bars. Not too concerned because it didn’t go over 4 bars in the 50 mile ride back from the dealer, will see what happens this week.
Interesting to know, thanks.Sound like a separate issue. I would guess it is the other way around. There is a problem that affects the rear wheel circuit on a warm bike and the ABS and/or ECU unit is identifies it and lets you know.
So it was the battery eh? Good to know... we have one of the confirmed sources.