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IXRACE MK2 slip on install

43K views 74 replies 19 participants last post by  QCS  
#1 ·
So after the back-order situation was resolved, I received the new slip on. Well packaged and lightweight for sure.

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No instructions attached (this is not a very complicated job. Just a packing list:

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and a copy of the exit side of the connecting pipe, for anyone interested:

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#3 · (Edited)
I did not take a picture of the DB Killer, although I left it out, so I can add one later.

Installing the new connecting pipe proved more difficult than expected. The clamp just doesn't want to go on. Feels like a four hand job, but I only have two. After some fiddling, I made it work. Make sure you use the supplied longer bolt, otherwise it is really tough to get to stay on.

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#4 · (Edited)
Next came the silencer. I installed all bolts but did not torque until after everything was in place. The fit it very tight and well done.

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Springs are easy to fit with the provided puller tool.
 

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#19 ·
Next came the silencer. I installed all bolts but did not torque until after everything was in place. The fit it very tight and well done.

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Springs are easy to fit with the provided puller tool.

I don't know if the "Washer" "spacer" go in front or behind ? because in front there is no technical reason, and behind, the muffler blow in the license plate direction...
I don't use it, and use the original screw which is shorter.


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#5 ·
And the final result. I love the shorty look and the black is, actually, very nice on this bike:

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Sound is much beefier. Even without the DBK, I don't find it to be that offensive, as long as you are not idling in place too much :wink:
 

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#27 ·
And the final result. I love the shorty look and the black is, actually, very nice on this bike:

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Sound is much beefier. Even without the DBK, I don't find it to be that offensive, as long as you are not idling in place too much 😉
Looks awesome. I just order mine. Have you noticed any gain or lost on the bikes performance? I'm asking because I was told that you loose 10 HP from the IXrace. There is a german video were the bike is tested on the roller. (y):cool:
 
#7 ·
Not a very complicated install and I don't think should be a problem for anyone with a few hand tools to perform. Only difficulty was getting the connecting piece to the CAT and making it stay. Not too bad.

Just sharing the experience.
 
#8 ·
Very nice @QCS really like the black finish. Do you use the rear pegs? I’ve taken mine off, personally find it aesthetically more pleasing.

Maybe chuck up a video with some sound if you get a moment.
 
#9 ·
I don't use the pegs when I ride alone :wink:

I left them on. Sometimes my kids hop on the back and my wife tried it yesterday and I think there is more backseat riding in her (near) future. She has her own permit and we used to ride together a lot, before the kids arrived, but that was a very long time ago.

I am planning on riding today/tomorrow. I will get a vid going.
 
#11 ·
Nice write up @QCS - I think the stubby looks great, how does it sound compared the the stock exhaust?

Do the protection bars on the connecting pipe get hot? I once burned a hole in an old pair of pants on with a cover a bit like that.
 
#13 ·
Thanks.

Sound is lower, fuller and louder, for sure. Much more "barking" than before. I will try to upload a vid later.

Not sure about the bars. I rode a quick one yesterday, no suit just jeans, and did not see/feel anything wrong. Not sure I am even getting that close to it.
 
#22 ·
Well thanks to this great write up (and a few YouTube videos) I've just went and bought one of these!

My only hope is its not one of the ones that comes with both baffles welded in!

Is there much of a difference between main baffle in or out? Also is there any noticeable different with how it runs/idles (either baffle in or out)? Reason I ask as I used to have an old 2005 R6 with a short scorpion slip on exhaust and it used to run so rough when you took the baffle out
 
#23 ·
well looks like I got some lame euro edition where both baffles are in.



The only thing I could try is see what its like first and if it still sounds too oem grind the spot welds off the smaller one and take it out and maybe drill a big hole in the bottom off the internal one
 
#24 ·
I would just take out the one. Don't worry about the second. It works and sounds great.
 
#25 ·
Yeah its the main one in the actual end can that would be a nightmare to take out.. looks like its not going anywhere. The one in the link pipe seems like it could be taken out quite easily.

just fitted it all there but its blowing from the cat to mid pipe join so need to play about with it. Don't want to over tighten it in case that bracket snaps. I hate working on exhaust :(
 
#30 ·
I can vouch for the lXrace, just fitted to my 2020 and it looks great and sounds great, (with the db killers left in on mine).
There is no loss of power, but only a gain of 1-2 hp on mine. I cannot comment on those who take out the baffles though, it may sound great, but that doesn't equate to performance. If you are taking anything out , don't touch the end can, just take the top hat out of the link pipe which is very lightly spot welded.
The weight saving when you remove stock and pillion pegs is massive.
I also removed the guard bar on the link pipe and fitted a black carbon heat shield.
(y) enjoy !
 
#31 ·
Really for looks, sound and a significant weight reduction. Power should not be affected, either up or down.
 
#33 ·
There's a lot of debate in the forum about this. And a lot of theories.

The bottom line is that just a can will not produce a large effect, without remapping, decating, etc. A few HP, plus or minus, might be a testing error or caused by slightly different conditions. I am aware of correction, BTW.
 
#35 ·
Looks good and has a lovely growl to it.
I know on any bike whether performance is better or worse simply from redlining through upper gears and checking top end. If I wanted more hp, i'd get a 1290 :giggle:. I just love the power to weight ratio and torque that this 790 gives, it's a joy toride.