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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed the updated valve cover gasket on my 790 this afternoon. Got sick of having to clean up the seepage after every ride.
Took just a hair under 2 hours. Had to remove more parts than I anticipated, but not bad really.

most tedious part is having to unbolt the radiator to get the radiator fan “tongue”out of the way.

4957
 

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IIRC you had another thread about ECU flash & QS with no response from your dealership. Dealer service experiences seem to be all over the place when it comes to the KTM street bikes and their willingness to run down warranty issues.
My local dealers are pretty good about no charge for ECU updates and I've only had one warranty issue for a faulty fuel level sender (on a different bike) resolved w/ no drama.
 

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Thanks for your posr! I've carefully painted sealant where the weep is as a temporary measure. My dealer is 160 km away so having it changed by them is inconvenient as it's only had its 11000 km service a month ago. I'll do it myself after seeing this 👍
 

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I've carefully painted sealant where the weep is as a temporary measure.
Whilst my bike was in for a replacement cam chain tensioner last Saturday, I asked my dealer to paint a little sealant on the recently installed "upgraded" valve cover gasket, which started weeping after two months at the front half-moon. So far, so good! Currently, no weeping. When it comes time to remove the cover for valve clearance adjustment, I'll be sure to have the mechanic apply sealant on the mating surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Whilst my bike was in for a replacement cam chain tensioner last Saturday, I asked my dealer to paint a little sealant on the recently installed "upgraded" valve cover gasket, which started weeping after two months at the front half-moon. So far, so good! Currently, no weeping. When it comes time to remove the cover for valve clearance adjustment, I'll be sure to have the mechanic apply sealant on the mating surfaces.
I put a light coat of Hondabond on the gasket at the half moon seals on both sides. Especially at the corners. 2500 miles later an dry as a bone.

FYI, hondabond is way better than the standard parts store RTV.
 

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hi Weaksy, I have as all of you little leakage from half moons too. I am waiting for new upgraded gasket. So one option is to seal the leaky half moon from inner side or ot is better to change whole gasket and precisely apply the sealant?
Another question, taking gas tank out is not necessary as I see on your photo? Or it is better to take it out as manual recommend.
Thank you for help :)
 

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I just did this job in the past week on my 890r.

I’m fairly certain you need to move the ABS module out of the way to get the coil packs out, so yes you’ll definitely want to remove the tank to to the job. The amount of fighting you would do otherwise would outweigh the few extra minutes it takes to remove the tank.

I used a very light coat of sealant around the whole (new revision) gasket and have heat cycled the motor 4 or 5 times now and it’s been bone dry.
 

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Hi camoto, thanks for advice. I am not sure on which layers is necessary to apply the sealant. Everybody has own procedure. If you look on this video, guy apply on gasket from both sides and to cover channel. Shoulkd I do it the same way.
And when the job will be done, I should left it to harden for 24 hours? Before strating the engine.
 

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Because the job is a substantial investment of time and you can’t test your work without mostly reassembling the bike, I chose the safest measures: light sealant on both sides using a high grade sealant (I also chose Hondabond as it has a great reputation) and I also let it cure for 24 hours before starting the bike. Neither of these two things should be necessary but I didn’t want to take any chances.

Looking at the video, my coat of sealant was even lighter than that. I used a chemical brush to apply it. Last thing you’d ever want is a glop of that to ooze out on the inside and break off floating around in your oil circuit.
 

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For my purpose I apply thin sealant layer like manual said with only difference. Aplication not only to areas C and D, but on the whole perimeter of cover and engine side. I hope it will be enough to run the engine dry :)

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior
 

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Since you are going to all the trouble to get the cam cover off this would be an excellent time to check your valve clearances. Also if you are anywhere near 9000 miles install new spark plugs too.

I will be doing all 3 very soon as I am at the 9000 mile mark. Manual calls for valve check and plug change at 9300 miles.

Twisty roads, warm temps, and zero oil leaks my friends. Cheers mates.
 

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it is curious, that you have service interval 9300 miles, which is aproximatelly 15 000kms. Because in my manual, I have plugs change and valve clearance control in 30 000kms
(twice longer interval).
Now I have 8 200kms only, so changing plugs will be too early and checking valves is maybe a good idea :)
 

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it is curious, that you have service interval 9300 miles, which is aproximatelly 15 000kms. Because in my manual, I have plugs change and valve clearance control in 30 000kms
(twice longer interval).
Now I have 8 200kms only, so changing plugs will be too early and checking valves is maybe a good idea :)
You are correct. Valves and plugs are at 18600 miles or 30,000 kilometers.

Guess I got some bad intel from somewhere. Thanks for point this out.
 

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hello boys, I have some questions for those, who have done valve clearance and they know what to do :)
manual says: remove the spark plugs and crank the engine several times. Nothing mentioned about the direction (anticlockwise, clockwise) and it is really important to crank the engine? As a beginner with technical education I dont see any reason why to crank the engine. I will set the engines for cylinder one to OT1 markings, measure gaps, then crank the engine to OT2 markings, measure it and done. As I understand it from another motorcycles correct direction is anticlockwise (direction of moving wheels.)
And about cam lever clip on cylinder 2 (which must be removed before measuring valves and installed) is there some problem or simply removing and install it?
I am sorry for stupid questions maybe, I didnt do this job before. So maybe some troubles is waiting for me, thats why I am questioning experienced mates :)
 

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hello boys. I have done valve clearance measuring on my duke yesterday, odometer 8 300km.
RESULTS are not so good. On first cylinder one intake valve tight 0,08 (tolerance 0,10-0,15), one exhaust valve loose more then 0,20 (tolerance 0,15-0,20). ALL other 6 valves gaps meet specifications.
This bike is going to piss me off. My bike is under 10k kms and 2 valves are out of specifications. Its a shame. I am really dissapointed. So dont trust KTM to check the valves on 30 000kms. For most bikes it could be very late. I must correct valve gaps, but I am not convinced, that I can manage it, so must wait for my friend service man, who has more experience than me. Its a shame, he dont have time for me now, I must wait many wek, few months. S H I T.
Wheels down.
 

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hello boys. I have done valve clearance measuring on my duke yesterday, odometer 8 300km.
RESULTS are not so good. On first cylinder one intake valve tight 0,08 (tolerance 0,10-0,15), one exhaust valve loose more then 0,20 (tolerance 0,15-0,20). ALL other 6 valves gaps meet specifications.
This bike is going to piss me off. My bike is under 10k kms and 2 valves are out of specifications. Its a shame. I am really dissapointed. So dont trust KTM to check the valves on 30 000kms. For most bikes it could be very late. I must correct valve gaps, but I am not convinced, that I can manage it, so must wait for my friend service man, who has more experience than me. Its a shame, he dont have time for me now, I must wait many wek, few months. S H I T.
Wheels down.
Sorry for the news but thank you for updating. I hope to hear the next update. Good luck, take a deep breath, and see it just a bump in road.
 
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