you Bought cheap **** from china says it’s already fading then complains about the guy who designed the part making a living wage…HERO LOGIC!
What Did You Do To Your Duke Today? + Off Topic
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Lol try again it was USA designed shipped in 3 days, and yes all annodized Al parts fades in uv if you don't realize. Lol and I wasn't complaining just saying I shoulda gotten black but you do you and keep on assuming since you know everything
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Well yes the Dye used in the anodising will fade - but it does depend on the dye.
I generally prefer paint. I comes from having done a lot with Night Vision.
Installed KOSO front signals. (Identical to the Yoshimura ones, as I have them on the rear of the bike. Koso versions are less expensive than the Yoshi ones. Used the same resistors I used on the rear signals to prevent the indicator lamp warning on the dash.
also picked up a screw on my last trip in my rear tire, my S22 has about 6000km and was getting squared off so I installed a Pirelli Supercorsa I had in my shed of my Dads… he had for his Street triple but doesn’t fit his new Tuono! I’m sure this tire will be here for a good time not quite a long time! Haha
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I am a fan of KOSO gear. They make parts for quite a few companies - including some luxury brands. I keep scouring Amazon, because you often find KOSO stuff going cheap as Amazon clear the shelves.
Bursig?
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I would love to see the installation required on the bike. Do you have a picture of the bike off the stand and the modifications they included? The Bursig stand looks like there is less modification to the bike itself.
Price of the stand looks good though and if it is un-intrusive with my current crash protection (Evo Sliders) - than it might be a nice option.
Thanks for sharing.
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I'll take a picture tomorrow. It's a very clean installation. Only one metal plug attached to the frame (I will paint it in black, as it's stainless). Lower attachment point is the big bolt of the rear set.
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27 Posts
I removed it. It's not very had if you know what you are doing or what to expect in advance. But I didn't find any manual, so it was pain in the ass. Next time I will do it much faster 😂
There are few bolts to remove from the side panel (the visible ones).
Then you remove two more from the inside just in front of the battery. and two from the inner side where the spring is.
There is also a brace which holds the subframe together. Remove the 4 bolts and put it away.
The left panel goes out together with the lock for the rear seat. Just remove the bolts of the lock.
The hard part is to assemble it. Airbox will come out of the snorkels to the throttle bodies. So you will have to lift the tank a bit in order to put them back.
Proper alignment of the filter box is also crucial. There are two knobs covered with plastic caps on the frame which goes to the respective holes in the filter box.
There are few bolts to remove from the side panel (the visible ones).
Then you remove two more from the inside just in front of the battery. and two from the inner side where the spring is.
There is also a brace which holds the subframe together. Remove the 4 bolts and put it away.
The left panel goes out together with the lock for the rear seat. Just remove the bolts of the lock.
The hard part is to assemble it. Airbox will come out of the snorkels to the throttle bodies. So you will have to lift the tank a bit in order to put them back.
Proper alignment of the filter box is also crucial. There are two knobs covered with plastic caps on the frame which goes to the respective holes in the filter box.
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