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Same here. I clean and lube it every 500 - 700 kms, and I've never had any issues in 27,000 kms. My mechanic checked my sprockets and chain recently, and although there is some wear, they're still within spec. Probably will replace in a couple thousand more kms.
This comment does not apply to the erudite inmates of this forum but it is herd mentality. A few people (who probably didn鈥檛 know you are supposed to lube an O ring chain) whinged about the CZ chain and suddenly every owner on the Facebook forum had a CZ chain that was about to self destruct straight out of the show room. Same for 790/890 reliability generally. Most riders don鈥檛 have too many serious issues but some seem to be in some sort of competition to see who has the biggest problem.馃榾
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I ordered the Nemo 2 today. They did not have the bar mount for it. I'll be looking for one. I'm notorious for not lubing the chain often enough. But I did not want a fully automated oiler. I think this will be the perfect solution.
Simple cushioned tube clamp. I'm torn between handlebar or down on the Givi Engine bar. It's not a gravity system.
Be interested in your final solution.
 

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2021 KTM Duke 890R
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Simple cushioned tube clamp. I'm torn between handlebar or down on the Givi Engine bar. It's not a gravity system.
Be interested in your final solution.
I received the Nemo 2 in the mail today. All I need is to get my bike back from the shop so I can install it.

I'm torn as to where to drip the oil at. It could be hidden much easier by the front sprocket then to run the oiler tube all the way back to the rear sprocket. Unless I can find some hard data that shows dripping near the front sprocket is effective, I'll do the install at the rear sprocket.
 

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I'm torn as to where to drip the oil at. It could be hidden much easier by the front sprocket then to run the oiler tube all the way back to the rear sprocket. Unless I can find some hard data that shows dripping near the front sprocket is effective, I'll do the install at the rear sprocket.
The main thing is to drip on the inside of the chain, so that it flings through the chain, not straight off. I doubt it makes any difference where it hits otherwise.

When I ran Scottoilers back in the day, I put the outlet tube against the rear sprocket, so the drips were never blown away from the chain. Seemed to work a lot better, then later Scottoiler came out with a dual-head system to deploy to either side of the sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I received the Nemo 2 in the mail today. All I need is to get my bike back from the shop so I can install it.

I'm torn as to where to drip the oil at. It could be hidden much easier by the front sprocket then to run the oiler tube all the way back to the rear sprocket. Unless I can find some hard data that shows dripping near the front sprocket is effective, I'll do the install at the rear sprocket.
Interesting as this is EXACTLY my thinking. Front Sprocket (or even more interesting - maybe -onto the chain slider on the top of the swing arm) - We're aiming for the roller/sprocket contact lube. For me the rear sprocket also would mean I could NOT use my existing Workshop stand. So it's a non starter.

IMO the NEMO would not be a REPLACEMENT for periodic proper maintenance. More a "get out of jail free card".
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
@WishIwasFaster - This is an ideas provoker. Take a look at this sprocket cover/engine saver from EvoTech.


It's (imo) rather expensive - but is a fair old amount of work and wasted material. The photo however does give you a bit more "vision" regarding where to maybe fit the oil dropper.

It is however the sort of engine porn that I like. Maybe ? - Who knows!.
 

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@WishIwasFaster - This is an ideas provoker. Take a look at this sprocket cover/engine saver from EvoTech.
It's (imo) rather expensive - but is a fair old amount of work and wasted material. The photo however does give you a bit more "vision" regarding where to maybe fit the oil dropper.
It is however the sort of engine porn that I like. Maybe ? - Who knows!.
I read on some random forum that their is a lot of chain movement near the front sprocket. The chain feed is on the top vs on the bottom on the rear sprocket. Since we want to drop on to the inside of the chain near where the chain enters the sprocket, the rear is the better choice. Trying to drop oil on the chain as it exits the front sprocket might be problematic if the chain has a lot of movement. One man who had done it on the front sprocket exit said it made quite a mess at speed. Less so if he rode slowly when the oil was dripping.
 

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I'll probaby do the drip tube just after front sprocket on the inside of the chain. If I don't like it, I can always move it to the back sprocket. I'm still waiting to get my bike back from the dealer. It's been 2 weeks. They said they would be done with it today. No word from them. :( I may have to look for another KTM dealer.
 

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I got my bike back from the dealer. The new springs feel great good. The -1 front sprocket does too. I live about 14 miles from the dealer. About 12 miles from the dealer as I slow for the red light the clutch lever goes soft. No clutch. I lurch to a stop then push the bike to the side of the road. I mess with the leaver adjustment opening up as much as I can. I get some clutch feel back. I start up the bike and it lunges forward . I pull on the brakes and I can feel the clutch slipping. The light turns green and I ride off. I鈥檓 able to get home. I roll thru 3 stops signs and I鈥檓 lucky and make the one stop light. As I roll up to the house I put the bike into neutral and roll into the garage. I鈥檒l take the bike back to the dealer today. They screwed something up when they installed the front springs.
 

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I took the bike to the dealer. The the clutch crimp bolt on the engine came loose. They readjusted and tightened it up. I think it was just not tight from factory. Just serendipity that it came loose when it did. I鈥檓 good to go. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Damm! Not a lot of room.
Here and now - DO NOT TRY TO LUBE THE ENGINE SPROCKET.
Like me you have the damped sprocket which will direct oil away from the rollers which is really what you need to lube.
Just behing the plastic sprocket cover and before the rear chain cover there is an exposed section. This runs on a plastic plate (swing arm protector). It's where I'd try first. Drip towards the rear of the plate and oil should be carried forward and scattered (maybe splattered).

Splatter could easily be managed!.

I pinched this photo from Maxicarbon - but see yellow dot.
Wheel Tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire
 

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This discussion had me almost pull the trigger on a new chain and sprocket set... I thought I'd go 15/42... or maybe 15/41 but then I thought how quickly I am going through gears on the track, so maybe stay 16/41...

I ended up not buying anything.

One thing I did find out is that chains run significantly cheaper @120 links... RK 520GXW plain is ~$80 on amazon for 120 links. Similar grade 520 chains (DID, EK) are the same. For the Duke is seems like the sweet spot.
 

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Here and now - DO NOT TRY TO LUBE THE ENGINE SPROCKET.
Like me you have the damped sprocket which will direct oil away from the rollers which is really what you need to lube.
I was going to try dropping the oil directly on the chain as it exits the front sprocket. There is just enough room for a 5/16 metal tube between the engine case and the sprocket. Just need a tube clamp to secure it off the front top sprocket cover bolt.
 
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