KTM 790 Duke Forum banner

Steering Damper Upgrade

28K views 65 replies 22 participants last post by  DranC 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

I decided to upgrade my steering damper. By chance, some of you are already familiar with the procedure and have gone through it?

Тhere are several options that I came up with:

  • Matris SDR
  • HyperPro CSC
  • WP ApexPro 7115

I bought the WP, but unfortunately it turned out that the kit had no tube clamp for mounting under the triple clamp. The included kit was just for mounting on a handlebar as usual. And now I wonder what to do and where to find the right mounting kit. Since the description stated that there was everything needed for installation.

Btw...In a clip on youtube I saw that some dude was just rebuild and changing the oil with different densities, thus dramatically improving the performance of the OEM steering damper.

How many of you find the installed damper weak and dysfunctional?

Thanks in advance

Cheers,
 
See less See more
#3 ·
Last week I installed the Matris SDK steering damper. I've ridden the 200 miles and the upgrade is awesome. No more unexpected head shake the stock damper can get you into once and a while. The 790 feels even more planted and worth the cash for the mod. The Matris SDK damper has a high speed dampening circuit and is direct bolt on, so that was an easy sell for me. I do want mention you loose about 3mm of steering lock on each side. I stuck a wheel weights on the bottom tripple clamp so you don't bottom on the damper and I still can lock my steering with the key. I bought the damper from Rottweiler Performance. Great mod you won't regret!
 
#11 · (Edited)
Well i watched the Vid and decided to do both the steering dampers on both the 790 and 1290. Pretty easy, i put 10W oil and its a bit more firmer. On the vid well you don't need to remove the cir clip on the eye end, just the other end where the seal punches out, oh also use a 10mm open end spanner to nock the cap off, far easier than hitting a flat end screwdriver, just put open end on the cap, hold a half inch above bench,closed end sitting on bench) then give the spanner a good tap with a rubber hammer, easy peasy. So both done and took about 1 1/2 hours to do both. Went for 10W as its double what was stock and i had some on the shelf. Now need this isolation rules to be relaxed so i can get out for a test ride..............PS, hardest part is getting the seal back in and holding it in tight to fit the cir clip.
 
#13 ·
The vid had some text saying the eye end wasn't necessary to do, some people just jump the gun and remove every fastener they can see at step 1. One vid had both out because it was filthy from dirt riding and he wanted to make sure the seals were happy (the pieces around his bushings were filled with rubbish). I'm looking forward to your thoughts on the change. :)
 
#18 ·
What a lovely thread - a DIY upgrade for little cost!
Yeah so I am getting a nasty head shake when accelerating hard and thinking this OE damper is just not coping very well. Reminds me of the time I rode one of the first TL1000s
in the UK! o_O

So what’s the conclusion on changing the oil to say 15w?
Is the head shake cured completely? Are there any downsides?
Thanks in advance.
:geek:
 
#19 ·
No downsides, you can't tell it's there when you're steering and you can still flick the bike exactly the same. My front end got more stable over the bumps on our fun roads.

@YoungLion had the head shake on his 790 and was happy when I changed the damper oil to 15w, so I'm sure he's got some feedback for you. We're planning on doing the damper in his new 890 this weekend so that should tell you something! :) The 890 manual shows the damper oil as 2.5w, and it sure comes out like water.
 
#20 ·
@Booney - @Rick is spot on with his assessment - much improved and for the cost of a tiny bit of fork oil, it's hands down the best bang for your buck mod you could make on the 790/890. Still not adjustable of course but I liken it to having an adjustable damper with say 20 clicks of adjustment - OEM is like level 4 of 20, the thicker oil swap is closer to an 8 or 10 out of 20 and adds a noticeably more stable front end when hustling along.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, this sounds well worth doing. any ideas why Ktm put such a low viscosity fluid in to start with? To sell their upgraded steering dampers perhaps?!🤔
Just looked in my w/shop and found this Fox Gold 20wt fluid :
4561


OK so it’s a bit heavier I know and its not synthetic and realliy made for my Mtb suspension - I‘m just eager to get it done!
:p
 
#22 ·
Thanks guys, this sounds well worth doing. any ideas why Ktm put such a low viscosity fluid in to start with? To sell their upgraded steering dampers perhaps?!🤔
Just looked in my w/shop and found this Fox Gold 20wt fluid :

OK so it’s a bit heavier I know and its not synthetic and realliy made for my Mtb suspension - I‘m just eager to get it done!
:p
Synthetic is not required for the damper. That's advertising reduced stiction (great) and moly (also great), will be aluminum compatible, and was made for fork tubes sliding in bushings with multiple forces applied. Our steering dampers are mounted on pivots so they don't really rely on the internal bushings as much as a bike fork.

20wt would also be fine, so don't worry about that. Super Duke 1290 guys are using 15-20wt, and Adventure guys are using up to 30wt to deal with rocky surfaces. One of the owners of the KTM dealer my wife works at is a racer with OCD about his bikes, and used straight 30wt engine oil in the damper for his race supermoto. I already had Belray 15wt fork oil from when I was playing with the pogo sticks in my other bike, so that's what I've been using in 3x 790/890 dampers so far (and one other local 890 needs it too after this weekend's ride).

You only need maybe a tablespoon and a half (looks like just one when you drain it), so just get it done with that 20wt Fox oil! :)
 
#26 ·
OK - got it! I had forget about the hydraulic pressure! So yes of course I just needed to extend the damper rod eyelet away from the seal and give it good tap and hey presto!
OK so I’ve filled it with 20wt and mounted it back and I have to say the steering does feel a lot heavier stationary. I’ll have to wait to take it for a ride and see what it’s like on the move and if it’s cured the head shaking. I’ll let y’all know.
Thanks for the help YL & Rick - Nice one. (y)
 
#29 ·
Hey Rick!

Just returned from a little test ride on a mixed route - managed a few gnarly backroads too!
Gave it plenty of gas from the off in Sport mode and even accelerating over a hump back bridge didn’t faze it! Feels solid as a rock and much more confidence inspiring now - even with the Maxxis rubber - haha! And the heavier steering doesn’t seem to be an issue either - so win win me thinks!
👍
Best
Booney
 
#31 ·
What exactly are you feeling? At what speed? Accelerating, decelerating or at constant speed?

It is a light bike. There is not, necessarily, a problem with the steering damper. BTW, suspension setting affects stability as well. Headshakes completely went away after upgrading my suspension. Never touched te steering damper on this bike.

There are a few ways to deal with this. You can replace the steering damper, but it would not necessarily provide you a good value. You might want to try to replace the fluid in the OEM damper with a heavier one. There is a lot of information about this on the forum. Might be a good first step.
 
#34 ·
Just came back from a weekend of riding. Was well over 70 in many cases. No wobble at all. Going back on the freeway, was over 90 for good stretches. No wobble.

As mentioned, used to have headshakes accelerating at around 85-90. All gone after I sorted out my suspension and the front doesn't get so light and tracks much better. That said, it is an expensive solution.

Easiest and cheapest is replacing the 5wt fluid with 10, 15 or 20. Easily done, very cheap and extremely effective. did this on a 1290 SA (very similar damper), with great results.
 
#45 ·
Please don't take this the wrong way but are you a new rider? I've been riding for 29 years, have a stock 790, and find no instability issues with this bike.

Upgrading the suspension is not a bad thing but worth looking at the basics with your bike in it's current form i.e. tyre pressure and rear preload.
 
#49 ·
If you already have the steering stabilizer on the way, you might want to wait.

Other options:
1. Return it and invest the money in suspension. It will cost more, though.
2. Install it and see what happens.

Setting up your suspension is always the right thing to do. This bike has very limited adjustments. You can at least try to do what's possible and see if there is an improvement.
 
#52 ·
Really before you go spending 1000s on suspension take the time to properly set your rear preload on your bike. It makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE. I didn't have nearly enough preload and It made the front end extremely light. (rear squatting too much taking the weight off the front end) I had to tighten it 3 positions before I got it to even a usable spot. The tool to do it is in the tool kit that came with the bike. That being said, i am maxed out on it and need to definitely do the upgrades for my weight, but it makes it at least usable. I take mine up over 130mph on track with the stock suspension and I'm about 250lbs in all my gear without a single wobble.

Little tip, these bikes like to have a little more forward angle than being perfectly level when you are setting your sag. Nothing dramatic though, just enough to get weight on the front
 
#63 ·
Rode with the 20wt. oil today. Tried to get it to shake it's head with max accelerations and 100+ MPH speeds. It did not. I guess it is better. Will have to wait for the next track day to verify 100%
 
#66 ·
I have HyperPro and I'm very happy with it.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top