KTM 790 Duke Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I decided to upgrade my steering damper. By chance, some of you are already familiar with the procedure and have gone through it?

Тhere are several options that I came up with:

  • Matris SDR
  • HyperPro CSC
  • WP ApexPro 7115
I bought the WP, but unfortunately it turned out that the kit had no tube clamp for mounting under the triple clamp. The included kit was just for mounting on a handlebar as usual. And now I wonder what to do and where to find the right mounting kit. Since the description stated that there was everything needed for installation.

Btw...In a clip on youtube I saw that some dude was just rebuild and changing the oil with different densities, thus dramatically improving the performance of the OEM steering damper.

How many of you find the installed damper weak and dysfunctional?

Thanks in advance

Cheers,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
As you say certainly on the 1290r some owners have changed the oil on the original fitment damper to make it a lot better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Last week I installed the Matris SDK steering damper. I've ridden the 200 miles and the upgrade is awesome. No more unexpected head shake the stock damper can get you into once and a while. The 790 feels even more planted and worth the cash for the mod. The Matris SDK damper has a high speed dampening circuit and is direct bolt on, so that was an easy sell for me. I do want mention you loose about 3mm of steering lock on each side. I stuck a wheel weights on the bottom tripple clamp so you don't bottom on the damper and I still can lock my steering with the key. I bought the damper from Rottweiler Performance. Great mod you won't regret!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
Last week I installed the Matris SDK steering damper. I've ridden the 200 miles and the upgrade is awesome. No more unexpected head shake the stock damper can get you into once and a while. The 790 feels even more planted and worth the cash for the mod. The Matris SDK damper has a high speed dampening circuit and is direct bolt on, so that was an easy sell for me. I do want mention you loose about 3mm of steering lock on each side. I stuck a wheel weights on the bottom tripple clamp so you don't bottom on the damper and I still can lock my steering with the key. I bought the damper from Rottweiler Performance. Great mod you won't regret!
The Matris fork kit is also great quality as long as you weigh around 85kgs. My mate who owns a local Suspension shop has been to the Matris factory, met the owner and been out for an Italian dinner with his family.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
How'd you know how to change the oil. Any ]vids you would recommend?
There's oodles on Youtube from people with SDR's and the 1090/1190/1290 Adventure bikes, some are definitely better than others. Here's one of the better ones (despite the intro) that shows the zip-tie to bleed the seal as you try to get it back in.


The end cap on the shaft doesn't have to be removed to change the oil, it just lets you get the parts out of your way if you wish. There's another vid with a complete tear-down but the guy's harder to listen to or watch (hint: under the piston oring is an easily removed pin, if you wish to fully disassemble it). Instead of hammering on the heim-joint with the piston against the end bushing, you can hammer on it mid-stroke and let fluid pressure do the work for you if you wish.

I'm pretty sure I have some Belray 15w fork oil in my locker at work, so I'll be doing this the next time I have my bike at the shop. Adventure guys are doing 20w and 30w to combat pulling in sand and rocks, SDR guys seem to be 15-20w from the reading I've done.
 

·
Super-Moderator
Joined
·
253 Posts
I'm pretty sure I have some Belray 15w fork oil in my locker at work, so I'll be doing this the next time I have my bike at the shop.
Sooo once you've done it and can tell if it's a worthwhile upgrade, maybe you could help a friend in need? :wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Sooo once you've done it and can tell if it's a worthwhile upgrade, maybe you could help a friend in need? :wink:
Don't worry, I was already planning on doing yours too. You're the one with the tank-slappers, I just don't want to find out the hard way. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
Well i watched the Vid and decided to do both the steering dampers on both the 790 and 1290. Pretty easy, i put 10W oil and its a bit more firmer. On the vid well you don't need to remove the cir clip on the eye end, just the other end where the seal punches out, oh also use a 10mm open end spanner to nock the cap off, far easier than hitting a flat end screwdriver, just put open end on the cap, hold a half inch above bench,closed end sitting on bench) then give the spanner a good tap with a rubber hammer, easy peasy. So both done and took about 1 1/2 hours to do both. Went for 10W as its double what was stock and i had some on the shelf. Now need this isolation rules to be relaxed so i can get out for a test ride..............PS, hardest part is getting the seal back in and holding it in tight to fit the cir clip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Well i watched the Vid and decided to do both the steering dampers on both the 790 and 1290. Pretty easy, i put 10W oil and its a bit more firmer. On the vid well you don't need to remove the cir clip on the eye end, just the other end where the seal punches out, oh also use a 10mm open end spanner to nock the cap off, far easier than hitting a flat end screwdriver, just put open end on the cap, hold a half inch above bench,closed end sitting on bench) then give the spanner a good tap with a rubber hammer, easy peasy. So both done and took about 1 1/2 hours to do both. Went for 10W as its double what was stock and i had some on the shelf. Now need this isolation rules to be relaxed so i can get out for a test ride..............PS, hardest part is getting the seal back in and holding it in tight to fit the cir clip.
The vid had some text saying the eye end wasn't necessary to do, some people just jump the gun and remove every fastener they can see at step 1. One vid had both out because it was filthy from dirt riding and he wanted to make sure the seals were happy (the pieces around his bushings were filled with rubbish). I'm looking forward to your thoughts on the change. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
I popped the seal out towards the rod joint end. Not sure it matters which way. I used the tiny zip tie method to help bleed excess oil as I pressed the seal back in. Worked like a charm.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top