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Thanks for the link, Evans. Beautiful parts. I love the fuel cap. Had similar experience with bending expensive ignition keys and rendering them unusable.

I know I am probably too cheap to appreciate some of the Italian Design aspects of what Rizoma does, but some of the prices are just outrageous, for relatively simple and cheap to produce pieces.

I am all for modding my bikes but, over the years, opting more and more to eBay, especially for bodywork hardware. Some of the Chinese machined aluminium parts I purchased looked very good, were 100% functional and outlasted my ownership of the bike.

Did I mention I am cheap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hear you. I鈥檝e admired them from afar for many years, but this is the first time that I鈥檝e actually installed any Rizoma parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Today, I stumbled into a fix for the turn signal issue that has taunted me for the past eight months. While staring at the Rizoma Veloce L cable connectors that connect the Leggera turn signals to the Duke wiring harness, I had a thought. To wit: What if there are resistors hiring under the shrink wrap, and the lump in the center isn鈥檛 butt connectors as I鈥檇 assumed. After all, why would they put a splice in a wire that ended into a crimp-on bullet connector? There had to be something under there.

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When I took off the shrink wrap, look at what I found.

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So, as an experiment, I cut the resistors out and spliced the wires directly to the turn signal wire. When I started up the bike, no more turn signal error. For clarity鈥檚 sake, there is still one of these adapters with the resistors in place on each front turn signal, just not in the rear. Also, I have my bike in LED mode. Here鈥檚 what the finished rewiring looks like.
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A side note: I love PosiTaps. While, I鈥檓 reasonably good at soldering, as as I get older and the essential tremor increases in my hands, screwing PosiTap connectors together in a tight space is just easier enough that I choose to do it with increasing frequency.

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That鈥檚 a pretty neat little time saver, Evans. Pleased that you found resolve to that situation as it was baffling for most!
 

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This is interesting! So you think the specific level of resistance from the one pair of connectors + LED mode is the secret sauce?

Important detail then: do you know the strength of the resistors in these?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That鈥檚 a pretty neat little time saver, Evans. Pleased that you found resolve to that situation as it was baffling for most!
Unfortunately, I don鈥檛 know if it will work for any other Rizoma turn signals, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is interesting! So you think the specific level of resistance from the one pair of connectors + LED mode is the secret sauce?

Important detail then: do you know the strength of the resistors in these?
The colored lines on the resistors tell the pertinent information, but I don鈥檛 know how to read them. Maybe someone can decode them for us.
 

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I reached out to Rizoma to ask if they are going to make their 3D levers for the Duke buy sadly they said no. Best levers I have ever used on any bike.

Stock ones are pretty good though.
 

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The colored lines on the resistors tell the pertinent information, but I don鈥檛 know how to read them. Maybe someone can decode them for us.
The tan resistor in parallel to the signal is 100 ohm. The green one is 47 ohm, the last yellow band isn't standard for a 5-band but may be a fail rate indicator (doesn't matter for any normal person's use). If we're going to start mathing it out (and I haven't checked in with the LED thread)... The stock bulb is 10W @12V, =14.4 ohm at operating temp, 833mA with engine off; 13.6W @ 14V and 972mA with engine running. The parallel leg (100 + 47 ohm) gets 95mA, so I'd really like to know how much current the signals are running and what the current range the dash wants to see. The magic part I can't see in the wiring diagram is how the dash knows if you're indicating left or right when it's just supplying a single wire to the switch and has no feedback. It could be that the diagram is wrong, or they're hiding something inside the switch (inductor/capacitor) and the dash is really smart (would be much simpler/cheaper to just wire it normally, but hey).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did you use the PE852B peg adapters? That's what Rizoma's website says but the pegs are angled too high up
Mine were angled slightly but not that high. I didn鈥檛 really notice it when riding, though. A few months later I switched to the PP rearsets.
 

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Mine were angled slightly but not that high. I didn鈥檛 really notice it when riding, though. A few months later I switched to the PP rearsets.
Feedback from Rizoma is this is correct...lol. I won't be using these to say the least.

I like the PP rearsets but wish they would have a black option.
 

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2020 790 Duke, 2006 SV 650, 2008 Hot rodded KLR, 1991 Honda Hawk NT 650
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Thanks for the link, Evans. Beautiful parts. I love the fuel cap. Had similar experience with bending expensive ignition keys and rendering them unusable.

I know I am probably too cheap to appreciate some of the Italian Design aspects of what Rizoma does, but some of the prices are just outrageous, for relatively simple and cheap to produce pieces.

I am all for modding my bikes but, over the years, opting more and more to eBay, especially for bodywork hardware. Some of the Chinese machined aluminium parts I purchased looked very good, were 100% functional and outlasted my ownership of the bike.

Did I mention I am cheap?
I totally agree. Italian parts are nice, but .....
My SV 650 ended up with about $4000 to $5000 dollars worth of goodies. Not all of them were inexpensive, but, had what's possible been Rizoma, it wild easily have been twice as much.
If you shop carefully you can find very nice custom items for a fraction of the cost. I find Evotech extremely overpriced, as well all KTM bling parts. I like my personalization dollars to go far and in good taste.
 

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