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Discussion Starter #1
Following some of the other posts on the matter, I decided to pull the trigger on an eBay used Brembo RCS 19. The price was just too good to leave -- $180 including the reservoir. This is the original RCS and NOT the Corsa Corta. I believe that the install and results should not be different, though.

Arrived in 3 days and is really "as new". Couldn't have asked for more.

Reading the other posts around the forum I ordered the HEL 90 degree adpter, from here. Arrived in two days. No way to fit the current line to the Brembo without it (or replacing the line). Brembo and KTM banjo threads are both M10X1, so you should have all you need.

Work is pretty straight forward. Took a little bit of time, because I had to fabricate the reservoir bracket (from a piece of aluminum I got at Lowe's). Might spend some more $$ on a Sato or something. Not sure. My fabricated bracket cost about $1. all the brackets I saw online are $12-$30.

Some install insights:

1. Used the OEM banjo to connect the line to the adapter and the supplied short HEL banjo to connect the adapter to the M/C. Don't tighten to spec until everything is in place. Once the lever is where you want it to be, tighten, while holding the adapter and making sure it does not move. It helped making sure everything is routed properly.

2. The lever does not foul. It is close to the kill switch, though. Make sure you bleed well and get it nice and hard (need to do it anyway). If you do, there is plenty of room left. If you are touching something you probably need to bleed more.

3. With my wider bar the lines and wires are at the end of their available length. You will need to get some more slack released, if bar is even wider. For the OEM bar, there should be no problem.

4. You don't need the Brembo light switch. Just pop it off the M/C (or not install it) with a flat screwdriver and save for future use.

5. As always with brakes, take your time and don't rush. Make sure that everything is nice an tight and that there are no leaks. I use a torque wrench, but it can can also be easily done by hand (feel). Just make sure you are not stripping the threads by over tightening. It can get pretty costly, pretty quickly.

I am attaching some pics. If anyone wants me to take an additional picture showing any specific detail of the install, please let me know and I will.

I will provide riding impressions, separately.
 

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Good timing, I am going to fit the exactly the same tomorrow hopefully. Got a new one straight from Italy, and a Hel adaptor here in the UK.
Curious to know what torque setting did you go with ?, as the instructions state 23-26 Nm, except for non oxidised die cast
which are 17-20 Nm.
I think mine is the latter (?) so will go for 20 Nm, as like you say it could easily be stripped being cast Aluminium.
https://www.790dukeforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1694&stc=1&d=1565303827
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Saw a few numbers floating around. Ended up with 15 ft-lb/20.34 Nm. Basically mid-way. I will monitor for leaks. If I see anything I will add a couple of Nm.

BTW, started tightening by hand. When I put the wrench on it to check and torque to spec, it was exactly 15 ft-lb... LOL. I guess I am a sort of HTW -- Human Torque Wrench.
 

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I still need to have a longer ride and will report over the weekend. At any rate, much firmer feel than the original, although it might be my religious bleeding process.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
After having the system rest for the night, spreading some pixie dust and whispering some voodoo enchantments, I bled the system again. Mainly because I really hated the spongy feel of the original system. Probably did not have to, but if it did not help it definitely did not hurt.

Initial riding impressions:

1. Much more braking power at the lever, even at the 20mm less aggressive setting on the RCS. The bike really stops on a dime.

2. Better braking feel and very consistent. Just what you would expect from a quality Brembo M/C. I had it on other bikes and I like the way it feels.

3. No worries that the lever might foul. The lever travel that is required in order to get serious braking force is pretty short. If you are getting the lever to the point it is touching something you probably have an installation problem -- either placement or, more probably, air in the system.

4. Seems like the 15 ft-lb torque was enough. No leaks for me.

It is a little difficult to separate this mod from the pad replacement that really did wonders to the front brakes. I will say again that if you have only $100 to spend on modding this bike then different pads are probably the best sub $100 investment you can make. I can't think of anything that will cost so little and make such a difference.

As far as the Brembo RCS M/C -- really nice, especially if you did not like the OEM lever feel, but not necessary. Has some BLING and personalization value as well.

At this point I am done modding the brakes. I have all the power, feel and consistency missing from the OEM setup. If the rotors go bad, I will change to the Galfers (standard or oversize). Until then I am pretty content.
 

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I’m glad you like it as well. I’ve installed a few, and then reinstalled them on other bikes. The rough-looking bracket is temporary until I fab something much nicer shortly.
 

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I'm curious as to why people install the 19 instead of the 17 as recommended by the folks at Rottweiler.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Different feel, I guess. I prefer the firmer feel and shorter stroke on the larger piston, although it might offer less modulation.
 

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Little late to the thread, still awesome to read.
I just got myself a RCS 17 and struggling as to how do I place it?

a) where the stock MC went, risking the lever to touch the Engine Starter
b) replace the Engine Starter with the MC - but that might look a little.. off.

Has your RCS lever ever touched any instrument?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was too cheap to buy a holder, so I made a similar one from a piece of Aluminum that I got in Lowes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Has your RCS lever ever touched any instrument?

No. Just make sure you bleed it well.
 

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It looks decidedly non-stock, but you get used to it. Note that in this photo, the switch is not rotated into the perfectly aligned position.
Phew.. And it wont get any closer to the MC?
This way it looks way off. (Still the safer way obviously.)

Has anyone of you ever had ABS problems? Not sure if there's a problem with the ABS system and the increased pressure for the RCS.
 

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Eye In The Sky
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Has anyone of you ever had ABS problems? Not sure if there's a problem with the ABS system and the increased pressure for the RCS.
For me personally, after riding sport bikes for 25 years, most all my motos were non-ABS, so I would just assume disable any ABS, so not to hinder my riding style, leaving the braking under my control, but that's only my opinion..
 

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For me personally, after riding sport bikes for 25 years, most all my motos were non-ABS, so I would just assume disable any ABS, so not to hinder my riding style, leaving the braking under my control, but that's only my opinion..
I can totally understand it. But I'd like to keep it as legal as possible.
And, atleast in germany, you can't disable the ABS without the dongle. And doing so you are not allowed to drive on public roads with the ABS disabled.
No insurance would pay anything.

I know, "where there is no judge there is no executioner", but still.
 
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