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One last question - Did you paint the edges of the screen or did you cover them with the wrap? I just got my supplies in and if I can free up this weekend, may give it a shot.
No problem - I left the edges clear.

Firstly I cleaned it completely using washing up liquid (US: dish soap?)

Dried it then painted the back black to reduce the headlight shine.

I covered the front of the screen in some newspaper and used masking tape to define a line around the edges, just onto the back side (so the edges would be clear).

I used some generic matt black spray automotive paint I had in the garage that I'd previously used to re-spray some levers that got scratched. A regular spray can with a ball bearing in it that you shake to mix, just cheap stuff from a local motor DIY place we have here in the UK (Halfords). I sprayed 5 layers in total with about 30 minutes in between each. Just a thin layer each time.

I left it for 24 hours to set properly then started wrapping - I did this inside as it better when everything is warm (I did this in the UK, it's cool in winter). Make sure it's clean and not dusty.

If I had better wrap I would maybe have wrapped it around the edges but as it was cheap stuff I just decided to do the front side leaving the edges clear or any covering. It was a first wrap of any kind for me so that was easiest to do.

Use a hair drier to make the wrap more malleable and pull it on with tension, If it goes wrong (get wrinkles) just pull it off and try again. Start by getting a line down the centre on the screen and work towards the edges. My wrap came with a "spudger" plastic tool to smooth it - but hands and finger nails work too, it's quite forgiving.

Once I'd got it covered I used a craft knife to scribe the edges neat - I used a bendy ruler to help the knife define the edge.

Hopefully you can see the clear edge I left in the photo (so no paint on the back, no wrap on the front) - it's an odd shape I think it's easier to do it this way.

I ended up cutting the wrap in the mounting holes out with the knife, and also the centre section sides too (so the wrap is on the front surfaces, not the sides of the central divot - hope that makes sense).

I think with higher quality of wrap you could get it to deform (with heat) into all the nooks but I just went with what was easiest.

Good luck!
4715


4714
 

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2020 Duke 790
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This is very, very helpful! Thanks for all the advice! Might take me a week or two to complete but I'll let you know how it went. Thanks again!!!
 

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I had new injectors and plugs put in to try fixing the lower-gear shifting cutouts. It didn't work, but since then I've also experienced the high revving on cold startup. I have an approx. 16km trip to work in the mornings, then the bike is parked for 9 hours. Most days it won't do it again in the arvos, but it still will every now and then.
If it hasn't been ridden for a few days, it will most likely happen in the morning, afternoon, then again the next morning, as I found out yesterday.
 

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Mine did the revup thing a few times when new but then went away.

I did discover that when it starts to rev just shut off the bike and restart for a normal start and idle. At least this worked for mine.
 

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I experience the revving issue as well. It seems to me as if it depends on the weather since it hunts and surges to all kinds of rev numbers during cold morning starts (0-5 degrees C).

The key switching point for me was when the bike got a decat fitted. With the decat it will most certainly surge during the starting period for like a minute and then shut off with the oil light showing. If I start her up again, she works like expected.
With the catalytic converter fitted (So stock exhaust, no mapping) she works again, as expected. No hunting and surging only very rarely at low RPMs. Nothing compared to the decat bike.

Note that I'm running the Akrapovic mapping from KTM, (Off-topic) which actually works great down low but sucks at high RPMs and top speed.
This makes me think that the issue around hunting and surging lies in the airflow and the backpressure of the motorcycle. Since the ECU is designed to work with the stock exhaust and catalytic converter. Changing any of these aspects changes the airflow of the motorcycle and thus the issue shows up.

My question is:
"Has anyone that has had this issue changed or modified anything related to the airflow and/or exhaust of the bike?"
 

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Anyone experienced this? When starting the bike cold (i.e. has been in the shed at least overnight) the bike starts, hesitates slightly and then revs to anywhere between 4,000 to 5,000 rpm before fairly quickly dropping back to a more correct 1,500-ish rpm. Note that when I say 'cold' I don't mean cold weather. I live in Brisbane, Australia and it's summer so daytime temps are 30 degrees centigrade (86 F) or more pretty much every day. Once the bike has been ridden and warmed up it does not exhibit this behaviour when re-started - not until the next cold start anyway. A bit of background on something I believe is associated - due to the appearance of a yellow warning light on the dash, back in early November a new ECU was fitted by the Dealer. This was after they had fitted a replacement Lambda Sensor to one of the header pipes to correct whatever was causing the warning light and the light remained on. Post ECU all good as far as running and performance but every single cold start since then this over-revving has happened. This week it went back to the Dealer to correct the problem. Due to them having to test their work only with a cold engine they had the bike for 4 and a half days. After my second call I was advised the "bike was ready to be collected". Note the language used - they did not say it was actually fixed. The Workshop Manager casually told me before I rode away that the "issue" might occur again. I objected and was told that "they all do that" (rev up to 4,000 rpm). I call BS to that. My bike did not experience this problem before the ECU was replaced. I think the Dealer has mistaken me for a fool and hopes I will just cop this and put up with it. So.……...my request to you, fellow Dukers, is do your bikes rev to 4 or 5 thousand when you start with a cold motor? Do you think my Dealer is ethically challenged - I sure do! Cheers,
Anyone experienced this? When starting the bike cold (i.e. has been in the shed at least overnight) the bike starts, hesitates slightly and then revs to anywhere between 4,000 to 5,000 rpm before fairly quickly dropping back to a more correct 1,500-ish rpm. Note that when I say 'cold' I don't mean cold weather. I live in Brisbane, Australia and it's summer so daytime temps are 30 degrees centigrade (86 F) or more pretty much every day. Once the bike has been ridden and warmed up it does not exhibit this behaviour when re-started - not until the next cold start anyway. A bit of background on something I believe is associated - due to the appearance of a yellow warning light on the dash, back in early November a new ECU was fitted by the Dealer. This was after they had fitted a replacement Lambda Sensor to one of the header pipes to correct whatever was causing the warning light and the light remained on. Post ECU all good as far as running and performance but every single cold start since then this over-revving has happened. This week it went back to the Dealer to correct the problem. Due to them having to test their work only with a cold engine they had the bike for 4 and a half days. After my second call I was advised the "bike was ready to be collected". Note the language used - they did not say it was actually fixed. The Workshop Manager casually told me before I rode away that the "issue" might occur again. I objected and was told that "they all do that" (rev up to 4,000 rpm). I call BS to that. My bike did not experience this problem before the ECU was replaced. I think the Dealer has mistaken me for a fool and hopes I will just cop this and put up with it. So.……...my request to you, fellow Dukers, is do your bikes rev to 4 or 5 thousand when you start with a cold motor? Do you think my Dealer is ethically challenged - I sure do! Cheers,
Hi Ken, Calling today from the left coast of Canada. I had similar issues to yourself several times with the high rev when cold, i just turned the bike off and back on - sorted itself out. Could perhaps be related to the too lean running software of euro 4-5? I have a Hindle exhaust with de-cat and a Booster plug (fatten the a/f ratio up). Runs better, but once in awhile the high rev happens when cold.
 

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This inability to hold idle is an ISC (Idle Speed Control) issue. Happens on all sorts of vehicles and the solution depends on the technologies used. I've not researched it for the KTM790.

Has SFA to do with it being EU4/5 - "fly by wire", being a KTM or even being a bike. It's more likely to be a cruddy connector somewhere like the TPS.
 
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