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end up getting it working?

which integrated tail did you purchase?
Hell no! Bought a cheap set of front signals on Amazon w/resistors and they didn't work either. I am not going to splice into the head unit wiring to install a diode so I just shortened the stock front signals for now. I mounted my tag to the bottom of the stock undertail so my tail tidy is custom from an ebay off-road plastic fender w/led brake light w/integrated signals. I didn't get the first one centered too well so I got a second one that I will get "just right".
 

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Finally got my KTM (Euro) LED signals installed and had the dealership enable the LED mode. Simply install, enable LED mode, and done! Signals work like a charm.

Highly recommended for those that don't want to have to deal with doing a custom setup. (However, probably not the cheapest route though.)

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Is those euro led have the rubber neck like stuck flashers ?
I have led from eBay that look similar to your but they are made out of stiff plastic so they can brake if hit.
 

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Sorry to resurrect this, but I thought I would add my experience if it helps anyone.

I have my bike working now with Motogadget M Blaze Pin turn signals.

I just did the math on mine to find the desired resistance and it worked fine. Here is how I arrived at the right size resistor to cover the differential between the original bulbs and the Motogadget Pins.

Stock Bulbs = 10W each (20w total) per side
Motogadget Pins = .4 amps measured @13v for 2 in parallel, so 5.2w total per side.

The KTM runs at 14.5 volts so I did this formula based off that since it will affect the resistor size:

R = U*U / (P old - P new)
R = 14.5*14.5 / (20 - 5.2)
R = 210.25 / 14.8
R = 14.2

So... 14.2 ohms is what's needed in theory.

I purchased 15ohm x 50 watt (50 watts so I could be at roughly 30% of current rating for the sake of heat and longevity). One resistor for each side should work perfect.

These are what I purchased:
HLin 5Pcs 50W 15 OHM Aluminum Housed Wire Wound Resistor Gold Tone: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I did a test today and they work perfect, right flashing rate, and no ugly error.

Hopes this helps future generations out. You can apply that formula to any variables and you should get the right result if you have your data right.
Sorry for resurrecting this, but thank you for resurrecting that: I’m about to try the m.blaze pins myself -thank you!

Do you know if there’s any way to incorporate the mo.wave Is it as simple as removing a relay and subbing this, or what are the additional obstacles?
 

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Sorry for resurrecting this, but thank you for resurrecting that: I’m about to try the m.blaze pins myself -thank you!

Do you know if there’s any way to incorporate the mo.wave Is it as simple as removing a relay and subbing this, or what are the additional obstacles?
I went the same route using both mblaze pins front and rear using 2 resistors in the rear 50w 15ohm as mentioned. Thanks @Zack Ebel
 

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I want small LEDs in the front, but OK with keeping the stock bulbs in the rear.

I wired up 20 ohm resistors in parallel in the front, but still get the "Indicator Lamp" error on the dash, and the front LEDs don't work; the rears still blink fine.

The new circuit with the 20ohm resister tests at 1.8ohm total, just like the OEM bulb signals.

Any other suggestions? Should I go with the 15ohm resistor mentioned above?

Have folks had success with mixing LED in front and bulb in the back? My ECU is still set for stock turn signals BTW.
 

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I want small LEDs in the front, but OK with keeping the stock bulbs in the rear.

I wired up 20 ohm resistors in parallel in the front, but still get the "Indicator Lamp" error on the dash, and the front LEDs don't work; the rears still blink fine.

The new circuit with the 20ohm resister tests at 1.8ohm total, just like the OEM bulb signals.

Any other suggestions? Should I go with the 15ohm resistor mentioned above?

Have folks had success with mixing LED in front and bulb in the back? My ECU is still set for stock turn signals BTW.
Regarding mixing - i had a set of motogadget pins in the rear and front stock - experimenting. Wired in as mentioned above, 2 resistors in the rear > while bike was off no error. When running i get error. Once i completed the front with led all worked fine.

Double check your wiring, perhaps you have your positive and neg wrong?
 

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Whew... SUCCESS FINALLY!!!

This was way more complicated than it needed to be. Turn signal swap outs are usually 10 minute jobs on older bikes with traditional relays.

On my bike, the front wiring was BLK/Brown right side, Dark Purple/Brown left side. I incorrectly assumed that BLK was ground (like conventional wiring!!!). KTM in their questionable wisdom chose Brown to be ground.

I swapped polarity, and voila everything works! LEDs in front, bulbs in back are OK combination, no error messages
 

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BTW I ordered these off of eBay for only $7. They have a blue LED on the back side, so you know when your turn signals are still flashing

10W 20 ohm resistors off of Amazon did the job. I've got enough to work on 5 other bikes now...
 

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Ask my dealership to enable “led mode” as I was getting my first service done on my US 2020 but they were not able to enable it. They said they couldn’t do it until I had the led lights install first and then come back. So bummed. I did get discount on my service so not too bummed.
 

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Well Dukers...I’ve done it. My Rizoma Corsas front/rear are FINALLY operating correctly. I’ve been living with the dash error for months, I cannot tell you how happy I am right now. Such a small victory but oh so satisfying.

Part list:
Rizoma Corsa S (rear) - shipped with MNNTHBX tail tidy
Rizoma Corsa (front)
Rizoma ‘turn signal cable kit’ (EE164H) - 1 pair
R&G resistors - 21.5 Ohm (RGR0002) - 1 pair

Installation:
  • R&G resistors in the rear
  • Rizoma cable kit (adapter/resistor) in the front
That’s it. When you are ‘testing’ make sure your bike is actually started/running. Without the bike started, there will be the dash error and as soon as you fire her up, it goes away.

Side-notes;
I bought 2 pairs of the Rizoma cable kits (4 adapters/resistors in total) which gave me a very odd result when trying to use them in both the front/rear. The amber light on the rear was always on. It blinked correctly when I turned the indicator on and no dash error but both the right/left were always on. I touched the small adapter/resistor and holy crap was it hot!!! I would have to imagine if I left it that way, there could have been some issue under the rear cover.

Hope this helps some of you that invested in Rizomas.

I am going to attempt this exact set up on my 890 Duke R next week when my resistors arrive. Fingers crossed things will go smooth.

"the early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese" lol!
 

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Here's another data point - I have a Euro spec 890 (stock LED signals) and swapped out the stock LEDs for some Koso Infinity and Koso Mars at the front and rear. They blink fine but I get the dash error message. I added a 15 Ohm 25 W resistor on each side in parallel but still get the error message. Anyone else with a Euro spec bike who had had a successful aftermarket signal installation? I am wondering if I should try switching off LED mode?
 

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I installed the MNNTHBX fender kit and a pair of Rizoma Corsa single function turn signals up front.

As instructed by JJHelka:

Rizoma Turn Signal cable kit EE164H installed on front
R&G Resistor Kit RGR0002 (21.5 ohm) resistor kit in the rear


Install took me 2-3 hours but I took steps to double check and verify before making permanent connections and that took extra time.

The front turn signals were pretty simple. The Rizoma cable kit makes these truly plug and play. Plenty of room to stuff the additional wiring behind the cover. I may go back in and modify the turn signal mount as it doesnt look as nice as I would like. It goes from a big chunky mount to a slim indicator. Im gonna see if someone offers a nicer mount option other than retaining the OEM one.

The rears took some time to double check the correct wiring and then make permanent soldered and heat shrink connections. I highly recommend ordering a new rear light harness from KTM for about $30. This way you can retain the full stock setup if you ever need to revert back to stock.

The posi-lock connectors offered by MNNTHBX are a joke and I couldnt even figure out how to make them work. Dont spend the extra $7 on them. I used heat shrink connectors that when heated, release solder directly onto the wires as the heat shrink seals everything together. https://www.amazon.com/140-Solder-Seal-Wire-Connectors/dp/B07JJ6YYKL

Pay attention to the Rizoma instructions as it will tell you which wire is positive (green) and which is negative (black) to wire into the resistor for the turn signals. Then use the MNNTHBX web instructions for the taillight wiring. I did not wire the plate light as I will be modifying the bracket to tuck the license plate up under the subframe for a more streamlined look. (may not be legal but my last 3 motorcycles were mounted the same).

There are 3 ground wires from the factory harness. One each goes to the turn signal wires, the 3rd was a part of the taillight wiring and is not needed. Red wires from lights get connected to the white wire from bike harness, white wires from lights get connected to yellow wire from harness.

Before you start making permanent connections, slide the rubber grommet over the signal wiring down towards the mounting base. Otherwise, you will have to figure out how to get the whole wiring harness through that little rubber hole.

I used small gator clips to make test connections before installing the solder/heat shrink. When I hooked up the rear with OEM front signals, I got an error message. When I hooked up front and rear, everything worked as it should!

So I can confirm that this exact setup and install will work for US Spec 890 Duke R.
mnnthbx.jpg


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