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Where's you buy the lights from and what part number did you use?

Do you have helpful instructions for the dealer to set the dash to LED? I have a feeling they'll be clueless when I ask them.
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/ktm-parts/60314025000
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/ktm-parts/60314026000

I would just tell the dealer to hook up the diagnostic tool and look through it to find the LED mode. The tech who did mine found it no problem. Can't remember what menu it's under.
 

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https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/ktm-parts/60314025000
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/ktm-parts/60314026000

I would just tell the dealer to hook up the diagnostic tool and look through it to find the LED mode. The tech who did mine found it no problem. Can't remember what menu it's under.
Thanks I just ordered them up. Hopefully they'll work with the Mustard tail tidy and as you said, plug and play and no playing with resistors like the rizomas require.
 

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IF I thought there was any change of getting them to fit EASILY - I would look at the Motogadget PIN and ICE indicators.
I confess I like motogadget stuff. I rebuilt my 1979 Guzzi using one of their MO.UNIT - painless.

Has anybody stuck a multimeter onto the wires to the indicators? - USA and EU.
I am wondering if the LED MODE actually sends out a PWM signal and whether it is actually 12V
 

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I know this might be asking a bit much, but could you draw up a wiring diagram or snap a photo of how you wired the resistors in?

Making plans for when I get back to the states in case LED mode doesn't work out.
Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been keeping track of the thread.

I don't have anything drawn up, but it's really simple. The resistor wires in parallel to the turn signal circuit. So take one side of the resistor and wire it to the ground of the turn signal circuit, and other side to the positive of the turn signal circuit.

Depending on how you did the math (front and rear together, or separate), you'll need one resistor, or two, per side. I combined my values since the front and rear are wired parallel on the factory harness, and used one resistor per side, mounted under the pillion seat.

I don't like chopping factory harnesses on bikes unless I'm doing a full custom, so I went ahead and made up a harness for all my lights that plugs in to the factory wiring and then all my lights and resistors plug in to that. The KTM harness uses standard 2.8mm latching pin connectors that have been found on every Japanese bike for the last 30+ years. They are very cheap to buy and easy to install. Worth the investment for the connector and crimp tool if you do any work on bikes, or even a lot of other small equipment at home. I made my resistors plug in so the next time I'm in the KTM dealer, I can unplug them and see if the LED mode will let me run without them.

Here is a kit that has everything you would need to make connectors. CK-5L - Vintage Connections

Attached is a few pics of how I did mine.

Hope that helps!
 

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IF I thought there was any change of getting them to fit EASILY - I would look at the Motogadget PIN and ICE indicators.
I confess I like motogadget stuff. I rebuilt my 1979 Guzzi using one of their MO.UNIT - painless.

Has anybody stuck a multimeter onto the wires to the indicators? - USA and EU.
I am wondering if the LED MODE actually sends out a PWM signal and whether it is actually 12V
Installing the fronts was easy on mine. Two quick adapter plates cut to a matching oval with a hole drilled in them. Probably took me 10 min to make and 15 to install.

Rears are a different story, but that’s because I wanted them in a specific place. I ended up machining my own hollow spacers for them, which is completely unnecessary. If you put them on a standard issue tail tidy, it would be easy.

If you use the same resistors I did, it’s a proven setup that runs with no warnings or issues. I’ve put on 200 miles with this setup.

I don’t think it’s PWM on LED mode, that would just facilitate dimming. I think the ECU is told to look for a different resistive value so you don’t get the warning, which is ultimately telling you a bulb is out because it’s seeing an open circuit or not enough/too much resistance. When I get mine swapped to LED mode, if it works, ill put a meter on it and see if anything changes. It shouldn’t affect voltage in either Case though since dimming LEDs with PWM is a function of duty cycle, not voltage.
 

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Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been keeping track of the thread.
Ah but you have! - That's neat work there mate. I did appreciate those rear columns - So much so I wanted to ask how you'd done them. I too have machine tools - and machining relaxes me. Think I'd have added some at the front too. But that's what individualism is about.

I think we share the same opinion on wiring. I'll be interested on your findings when in LED MODE - Having an EU bike means we're in LED mode anyway.
 

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Ah but you have! - That's neat work there mate. I did appreciate those rear columns - So much so I wanted to ask how you'd done them. I too have machine tools - and machining relaxes me. Think I'd have added some at the front too. But that's what individualism is about.

I think we share the same opinion on wiring. I'll be interested on your findings when in LED MODE - Having an EU bike means we're in LED mode anyway.
Yeah, I'm intrigued too. The dealer is around 2 hours away from me, so I'll wait until I need a few things and then bring the bike out there, probably in the next couple months.

The columns (made out of 6061 T6) were done on my lathe, threaded to replace the original bolt (same specs), and drilled hollow just over (1mm-2mm~ the size of the wire coming out of the Motogadget Pin. The part that the Pin threads in to is roughly 30mm long and the hole inside is about 25mm to provide enough overlap for strength. The bottom of the hole has around 5 threads in it, the rest is drilled for clearance so I don't have to twist the Pin wire like crazy to thread it on, just 2 or 3 threads engage on the Pin. The top 10mm is drilled at 3% larger than the flat to flat dimension of an 8mm hex broach I made (I don't remember the exact dimension right now, but I can check later if you want it) by grinding down a 9mm wrench to the right dimensions, and putting a concave edge on it by spinning it in the lathe and using a Dremel disc on the end while spinning. The broach cuts two edges at a time by pressing in an arbor press. So I put blue on the parts, layed out my 6 points with a divider, and punched them by rotating and eyeing it up. It's a pretty crude way to broach a blind hex, but I was using what I had at my disposal that day. Hex depth is like 7-8mm of engagement.

I then anodized them and painted them black to match everything else I made.

Here are a couple pics. Let me know if that even makes any sense. If not, I can make a another thread (so I don't clutter this one up), or go find my pencil marks on the back of some random paper in my garage with the dimensions on it :grin:
 

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Aha. it does - Neat bit of broaching. Hat's off!. Think I'd have used some threaded steel stud. M8 thread with a 2mm hole in 6061 feels a bit close for comfort.
Thanks!

Agreed on the strength. It's definitely riding the line.

Through some very debatable math practices I think the shear strength is something like 1000 pounds on that weight bearing cross section. I did in fact break my first iteration while machining, and made a few adjustments after finding it's destructive load limit on the lathe :grin:

Where it sits though, it doesn't see much stress even with a pillion rider, which I almost never have. I'm 230 lbs and bounced up and down sitting on the pillion on a paddock stand and it took it without distortion. I figure I'll try it this way, and if it destructs, it's not in a critical place. At that point I'll make a whole new set out of cold rolled steel.

I have lots of 6061 T6 round stock around though, so it tends to be my go-to on moto parts.
 

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I have lots of 6061 T6 round stock around though, so it tends to be my go-to on moto parts.
I've been thinking about this on and off all night (I have to take hypnotics to stay under so some of the details get left behind). But Carbon Fibre keeps flooding into my brain. Not for the looks. It's all about where you located the rear ones - I think it's simply inspired.
 

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I've been thinking about this on and off all night (I have to take hypnotics to stay under so some of the details get left behind). But Carbon Fibre keeps flooding into my brain. Not for the looks. It's all about where you located the rear ones - I think it's simply inspired.
Agreed - it's such a nice solution, great job!
 

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I have lots of 6061 T6 round stock around though, so it tends to be my go-to on moto parts.
I've been thinking about this on and off all night (I have to take hypnotics to stay under so some of the details get left behind). But Carbon Fibre keeps flooding into my brain. Not for the looks. It's all about where you located the rear ones - I think it's simply inspired.
How would you use carbon fiber in that application? Just for the extension part or molding some whole new piece for the pillion?

I had thought about a whole new tail section at first and integrating in the tail light and signals, but I decided to do this instead so if I wanted to carry a pillion or luggage I would have options.
 

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Where's you buy the lights from and what part number did you use?

Do you have helpful instructions for the dealer to set the dash to LED? I have a feeling they'll be clueless when I ask them.
https://www.motorcycles pareparts.eu/en/ktm-parts/60314025000
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/ktm-parts/60314026000

I would just tell the dealer to hook up the diagnostic tool and look through it to find the LED mode. The tech who did mine found it no problem. Can't remember what menu it's under.


Its under the combination display section on the KTM Tablet. There is a sub menu that says LED Mode.
 

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I installed 2 front sets of Yoshimura Sequencial (didn’t need the rear brackets/relay) along with the plug and play connectors and one set of resistors at front. Everything works great, no hyper flashing or dash errors. I wish i could post a video (no option on phone posting) but the sequencing is awesome 🙂
 

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