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https://www.ebay.es/itm/KTM-Duke-79...002348?hash=item3fc4d17a6c:g:rZ0AAOSwrbtak-TZ
It's a Lambda fooler - Doing my damnedest to track it to source.
It's a Lambda fooler - Doing my damnedest to track it to source.
I don't do FB. :sad: I am trying to find technical details.There’s a guy on the uk fb page fitted one and says it’s great.
That's just the seller. I have traced to the Spanish distributors. Written asking for outlets close to me or Spanish online sellers. Looks like a product line they'd rather not see too visible commercially.Email listed in the eBay posting.
Thank you for that pointer. YUP - They really have looked into it. Actually exactly the sort of info I am after too. Forget the thing.On https://www.ktmforum.eu/forum/ they discover it is not working at all.
do you have an charts or diagnostic data? Of your lambda device work.I have that exact unit on my bike and have confirmed that it does in fact work. I've watched it change the o2 sensor output using an obd live data tool. I just don't think it alters the signal enough to make much difference. Booster plug made a more significant difference in fueling.
I'm lucky I can read/speak German well (esp in technical fields) - so can read a bit between the lines too. They don't actually say it does nothing - but it seems they have detected it does not, long term, maintain the cylinders balanced and at full chat eventually the lambda alarms go off. Some sort of data creep.I have that exact unit on my bike and have confirmed that it does in fact work. I've watched it change the o2 sensor output using an obd live data tool. I just don't think it alters the signal enough to make much difference. Booster plug made a more significant difference in fueling.
OK I should have read the WHOLE thread. There are two small rubber elbows Left And Right to the alloy rear frame - rip them out - midrange better but top end not so great. Free midrange torque. That'll do (me) for a start. Stock ECU compensates perfectly. I don't often rev past 8K anyway.What is also interesting is the info on the Air Filter Box. Basically leave it alone.
OK I should have read the WHOLE thread. There are two small rubber elbows Left And Right to the alloy rear frame - rip them out - midrange better but top end not so great. Free midrange torque. That'll do (me) for a start. Stock ECU compensates perfectly. I don't often rev past 8K anyway.
That or rip the whole filter box out and replace. There is also an Austrian lambda fooler in R&D. And new high volume headers from REMUS in R&D.
Took me ages to cope with the colloquial German - but it's all there with DYNO charts. :grin:
I am always sceptical. But rather than call anybody professional out on an open forum - I prefer to write directly and question.do not believe in everything you read, but there is indeed a lot of info
But I do indeed intend to try the FREE Filter Box mod'. If it really does get rid of the torque "dip" - that'll do me for now. I am not interested in "Track" levels of performance - but I am used to midrange torque - and I can feel the dip.
Also thinking I might look for another OEM exhaust to modify a bit. If only to ceramic coat in black. Though I would like too open it up to 45/46mm exit hole. It's a volumetric thing. Much much cheaper than something snazzy. And very Wolf in Sheep's clothing, which is very me.
I've been trying to pull the rubber elbow bits out - but these old fingers don't have the strength. :crying: - Yeah I'm a wimp, bite me!.
I'll try to get pics of my data recording. I can turn the dial on the Rapid Bike module as the bike idles and watch the lamba voltage rise and fall. It's doing something but I didn't notice much, if anything, in closed loop performance.do you have an charts or diagnostic data? Of your lambda device work.
It was confirmed last year that the booster plug is not working. No big Airtemp correction on running engine, only on start.
Nothing magical about the Rapid Bike module. It receives the signal from the o2 sensors, modifies it, and then sends it along to the ECU. There are no more o2 sensors downstream to send data to the ECU for it to tune out any changes. It taps into both sensors and adjusts the values for each. That said, it's not worth the money IMO.I'm lucky I can read/speak German well (esp in technical fields) - so can read a bit between the lines too. They don't actually say it does nothing - but it seems they have detected it does not, long term, maintain the cylinders balanced and at full chat eventually the lambda alarms go off. Some sort of data creep.
It's well detailed techno-nerd forum (suits me :winkand includes the lambda measurement cycles. They also talk more in depth about the COOBER and the same questions I have are raised there. Though there is evidence it works (somehow). And discoveries regarding modifying the filter box are well interesting. I intend to spend some time reading there.
Be interesting to see if the Aussie chap manages to beat it. My gut feel somehow is that each lambda has to be modified/monitored totally independently.
I think for now I am prepared to live vicariously through the experimenting on the 790D. I spent hours and hours (and lots of money) with PCV-AT on the R3. MAP vs TPS tuning and even some ignition. Different map in each gear. Yes! - It does indeed proceed with alarming alacrity buy the increase in consumption has also been interesting. The gains however were far more.
All this said - sometimes it is random discoveries that surprise. The 1997 Buells could gain 6hp with a 99cent part. Discovered when a chap bust the original.