[magnets]

A simple guide, which might be of use for a beginner or someone who isn't happy with the factory levers.
(also, when you drop your bike, you are likely to snap your clutch lever, leaving you pretty much stuffed. So it's not a bad idea to have a spare clutch lever under the seat.
Like a plunger... buy one before you need one).


What's wrong with the levers?
For me, and i don't know if i'm just extra, but they were too long and didn't come close enough to the grips for me. I wear thin racing gloves so don't need a lot of space around the grips. I also like to do two finger or one finger clutch and front braking. I come from an adventure style bike and just got used to always having a good grip on the bars no matter what i was doing.

and?
and these ones are a bit shorter so are more comfy to use

And?
and they fold upwards so are less likely to break when you drop the bike

AND?
and they are shiny and orange alright!

What do i need?

You will need

• the levers, I picked the pair up from Aliexpress for Au$30 delivered . They arrived quick and were well packaged.
  (I don't make any money from this link, buy from where ever, I'm not your supervisor)
  They aren't amazing quality, I suspect that not all the parts that look like they should be stainless really are. Time will tell. But, it would still be a good deal to buy these and replace the nuts and machine screws with high grade stainless.
  
• An Allen key, its smaller than the one in your toolkit annoyingly.
  either some pliers, a spanner or the tube spanner in your toolkit
  
  
  
• I also found a small wood clamp really helpful, you could also get by with some locking pliers or similar.
  

What do i do?
Pull the clutch in and clamp the cable, or use the wood clamp to clamp the clutch in at the engine housing.

Use the tube spanner to hold the nylon lock nut on the bottom of the clutch lever housing, if required hold the tube spanner with another tool to stop it rotating.

Use the Allen key to remove the pin.
The tube spanner will retain the nut, don't worry about it

Invert the lever and twist it so the cable and pin can pop out,

pop the new lever in

twist it back around the right way

Put the pin back and screw it into the nut still held by the tube spanner.
Technically you should replace the nylon lock nut, but i didn't and i think if you only undo it once it's not going to fail on you. Again, you do you. Technically nylon lock nuts are single use.
Release the clutch clamp and adjust for comfort.

Onto the brake lever
As before, shove the tube spanner underneath, use the Allen key to undo, I found this side much tighter.
Pull the pin out, the lever will come free, put the new lever in and tighten the pin.
I think the pin has a thread in the lower housing of the arm, so i tightened that, then held it still and did up the lock nut with the tube spanner
You may want to add a small dob of grease to the ballpin and socket where the piston meets the lever, i found there was still lots of grease on the pin.
Done!

 

[Geoff]

I have the titanium and black versions. I was impressed with the standard of engineering and they have a nice feel. Value for money.

 

[magnets]

any signs of rust yet?

 

[Geoff]

any signs of rust yet?

Not in the month I've had them on and I've been riding in some crap weather! Photo at the end of this post: http://geoffjames.blogspot.com/2019/07/t-time.html

 

[QCS]

Nice post, magnets. These things don't rust. Anodized aluminium. I have a lot of experience with the Chinese knock off levers. Using them for years. If they fit well, you will have a trouble free experience.

I did try a pair on the Duke and ended up swapping back to the OEM, for two reasons:

1. Didn't like the angle of the lever, compared to the OEM. Difference can be clearly seen on your first picture.

2. The clutch side adapter had a small free play in its seat (on the bike), which I didn't like.

Asked the seller to return. They offered me a slightly different set and I agreed. The second set is very similar, so I didn't even install it and ended up with two sets of levers that I don't use. They look really good, though. One is titanium-black and one is orange.

If anyone is interested...

 

[Geoff]

Nice post, magnets. These things don't rust. Anodized aluminium. I have a lot of experience with the Chinese knock off levers. Using them for years. If they fit well, you will have a trouble free experience.

I think Magnets was referring to the screws, not the die castings :grin:

 

[QCS]

I think Magnets was referring to the screws, not the die castings :grin:

Wouldn't expect any rust there as well.

 

[magnets]

i'm not convinced the nylock nuts are stainless.
nor the little screw that holds the sliding assembly at the end of the lever (allowing you to adjust the length of the lever).

 

[QCS]

You will sell the bike much earlier than you'll see rust on these nuts and bolts. Maybe unless you are going scuba diving in the dead sea with it :wink:

 

[Tomfoolery420]

Recently purchased some from china on my MT07. here is what I found
1)Needed to go through and locktight screws as I lost one first week.
2)While installing the clutch side mounting hole was wrong size(had to drill correct size-then was concerned about strength etc. -so I ended up buying a Puig clutch adapter) Frankenbrake!!
3)I also found there was alot of play between lever and adapters.

So in closing not sure I will go that route again but Ktm adjustable aftermarkets are $200 each. :crying:

 

[magnets]

sounds like they sent you the wrong levers :0)

mine have a very small amount of play compared to the originals, but they are doing well. didin't need loctite and i kept the grease from the old levers and smeared it about the place.