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Thought I chime in with my "how do I power electrical things" solution for the 790 Duke.

I looked at the PP USB power option which connects to the side of the headlight but decided against it - I wanted power front and rear for one thing and didn't particularly like the bracket or the USB's low power rating.

So I settled on using SAE connectors - they are the kind of connectors used by some battery chargers and also by a few solar systems for DC connections. They are nice and cheap so I bought a pack of 6 blank SAE pigtails off Amazon, the ones I got are about 1 foot (30 cm) long.

They have a waterproof (with cap) SAE connector on one end and plain wire connectors at the other - you need to add some 6mm spade connectors on the bar ends to connect to the wire harness - best to do this with a good crimper.

For neatness I cut some short heat shrink tubing to dress the ends - put this on before you crimp naturally - and apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to shrink onto the wire/crimp connector after.

I also wrapped the whole length in wiring harness tape for a good look - it's a cloth material that sticks to itself.

At the rear, under the pillion seat at the side of the battery are two sets of connectors just peeking out: ACC1 & ACC2. They are spade socket connectors in clear rubber shrouds. ACC1 is always on and ACC2 comes on with the ignition - plug the SAE connector into whichever suits you.

Similar connectors are at the front of the bike behind the headlight cowl.

You completely undo the headlight adjuster screw at the top of the headlight and the headlight unit tilts forward. The screw is captive so won't fall out - I counted the turns so I could put it back without realigning the headlight after. Unplug the headlight connector on the back and then the headlight can tilt all the way forward down and rest on the mudguard/fender.

Behind the headlight you will find a plastic cover held on with three screws, one at the top and two at the bottom - undo these and remove the cover. You will find the front ACC1 and ACC2 connections on the left hand side - they are the same spade sockets as at the rear, same wiring colouring too.

I fed my pigtail down from behind the dash following existing cables and plugged it in keeping the wiring tidy and out the way. Make sure that the SAE connector up top has enough play to hide under the handlebar riser.

Put the cover back on with the three screws and swing the headlight unit back up, connect the headlight connector and push the headlight all the way back up into place then screw the headlight adjusting screw back in with the same number of turns as you used to remove it.

It's easier to do in practice than actually write this - the photos should make it clearer

To convert this all to useable USB power I bought an "OptiMate O100 SAE USB Charger 2400mA" from Amazon too. This lives under the rear seat until I need it along with any USB cables.

The thing I like about this is that it delivers lots of power (~10W) and is smart - it knows when then engine is running and when the engine is stops it only supplies power for a further 3 hours then cuts out so it can't drain your bike battery. I also measures battery health too.

All you need now is a USB cable to connect whatever device you need to charge / power. I have a small flexible rubber one for the front (6 inches / 15 cm) - this connects to my phone mounted on a QuadLock bracket attached to the handlebars.

I hope this is useful for folks!
 

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Very nice DMA!! This is by far the best set up I have seen as I hate the huge accessories as well. Where did you get the quad loc?
 

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Very nice DMA!! This is by far the best set up I have seen as I hate the huge accessories as well. Where did you get the quad loc?
I am pretty sure I got it direct from got QuadLock (https://www.quadlockcase.co.uk) a couple of years ago when they first came out as that was the only way to get them. I even bought the belt clip version and modified it to fit to an off-road bike I had.

You can get all the bits from Amazon now at least in the UK.

They are not cheap but they work really well - I used to use it on another bike and repurposed it for the Duke.

It's the Motorcycle Handlebar Mount - it comes with a middle bar section that I removed as it fitted neatly between the handlebar top mount without it. The middle bar allows you to position your device it offset or at an angle relative to the clamp that goes around the bars.

For my phone I got a rubbery bumper case and stuck a QuadLock universal adapter to the back. For many common phones they make a custom case, just none for my Note 8.

The universal adapter has a 3M glue pad on the back - just peel off the label and it will stick to most anything - I left it overnight with a weight on it before using to properly cure and adhere to the case. That stuff sticks really well - my helmet cam mount uses it.

Having google maps / driving works really well when I need it after getting lost exploring the tiny roads - and it all hides away when I don't need it which is the best thing really.
 

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Thanks for this, I went down this route. But I didn't bother with the OptiMate, (might get this later down the line for under the seat).

I got the QuadLock with the USB charger build in, so its all one unit. Still charges my Pixel 3 at 1300mah, which is good enough

 

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Nice one - the QuadLock USB charger for motorcycles didn't exist back when I fitted mine.

The perfect solution for me would be a wireless charging head - just clip it on and no wire to the phone. I only ever charge my phone wirelessly these days as it's so convenient.

QuadLock do now make a wireless head for their car mount but there's no easy way to adapt it for motorcycle use as it's not weatherproof and has no central bolt hole to connect to the arm like all the two wheel compatible version. They also say it isn't compatible with universal mounts (which is what I use on a generic phone hard case) ... oh well, maybe one day!
 

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That looks GREAT! I just ordered some of that harness tape. No more electrical tape for me. Really tidy job and good how to.
 

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That looks GREAT! I just ordered some of that harness tape. No more electrical tape for me. Really tidy job and good how to.
Thanks Stewart - glad you like.

Once you've used harness tape on your projects you won't go back. Electrical tape is only really useful where you actually need electrical insulation... and it degrades and leaves a grubby residue on stuff when it eventually falls off.
 
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