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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thought I chime in with my "how do I power electrical things" solution for the 790 Duke.

I looked at the PP USB power option which connects to the side of the headlight but decided against it - I wanted power front and rear for one thing and didn't particularly like the bracket or the USB's low power rating.

So I settled on using SAE connectors - they are the kind of connectors used by some battery chargers and also by a few solar systems for DC connections. They are nice and cheap so I bought a pack of 6 blank SAE pigtails off Amazon, the ones I got are about 1 foot (30 cm) long.

They have a waterproof (with cap) SAE connector on one end and plain wire connectors at the other - you need to add some 6mm spade connectors on the bare ends to connect to the wire harness - best to do this with a good crimper.

For neatness I cut some short heat shrink tubing to dress the ends - put this on before you crimp naturally - and apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to shrink onto the wire/crimp connector after.

I also wrapped the whole length in wiring harness tape for a good look - it's a cloth material that sticks to itself.

At the rear, under the pillion seat at the side of the battery are two sets of connectors just peeking out: ACC1 & ACC2. They are spade socket connectors in clear rubber shrouds. ACC1 is always on and ACC2 comes on with the ignition - plug the SAE connector into whichever suits you.

Similar connectors are at the front of the bike behind the headlight cowl.

You completely undo the headlight adjuster screw at the top of the headlight and the headlight unit tilts forward. The screw is captive so won't fall out - I counted the turns so I could put it back without realigning the headlight after. Unplug the headlight connector on the back and then the headlight can tilt all the way forward down and rest on the mudguard/fender.

Behind the headlight you will find a plastic cover held on with three screws, one at the top and two at the bottom - undo these and remove the cover. You will find the front ACC1 and ACC2 connections on the left hand side - they are the same spade sockets as at the rear, same wiring colouring too.

I fed my pigtail down from behind the dash following existing cables and plugged it in keeping the wiring tidy and out the way. Make sure that the SAE connector up top has enough play to hide under the handlebar riser.

Put the cover back on with the three screws and swing the headlight unit back up, connect the headlight connector and push the headlight all the way back up into place then screw the headlight adjusting screw back in with the same number of turns as you used to remove it.

It's easier to do in practice than actually write this - the photos should make it clearer

To convert this all to useable USB power I bought an "OptiMate O100 SAE USB Charger 2400mA" from Amazon too. This lives under the rear seat until I need it along with any USB cables.

The thing I like about this is that it delivers lots of power (~10W) and is smart - it knows when then engine is running and when the engine stops it only supplies power for a further 3 hours then cuts out so it can't drain your bike battery. It also measures battery health too.

All you need now is a USB cable to connect whatever device you need to charge / power. I have a small flexible rubber one for the front (6 inches / 15 cm) - this connects to my phone mounted on a QuadLock bracket attached to the handlebars.

I hope this is useful for folks!
 

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Very nice DMA!! This is by far the best set up I have seen as I hate the huge accessories as well. Where did you get the quad loc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very nice DMA!! This is by far the best set up I have seen as I hate the huge accessories as well. Where did you get the quad loc?
I am pretty sure I got it direct from got QuadLock (https://www.quadlockcase.co.uk) a couple of years ago when they first came out as that was the only way to get them. I even bought the belt clip version and modified it to fit to an off-road bike I had.

You can get all the bits from Amazon now at least in the UK.

They are not cheap but they work really well - I used to use it on another bike and repurposed it for the Duke.

It's the Motorcycle Handlebar Mount - it comes with a middle bar section that I removed as it fitted neatly between the handlebar top mount without it. The middle bar allows you to position your device it offset or at an angle relative to the clamp that goes around the bars.

For my phone I got a rubbery bumper case and stuck a QuadLock universal adapter to the back. For many common phones they make a custom case, just none for my Note 8.

The universal adapter has a 3M glue pad on the back - just peel off the label and it will stick to most anything - I left it overnight with a weight on it before using to properly cure and adhere to the case. That stuff sticks really well - my helmet cam mount uses it.

Having google maps / driving works really well when I need it after getting lost exploring the tiny roads - and it all hides away when I don't need it which is the best thing really.
 

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Awesome write up! Should've done it this way instead of the PP USB port. It works but it was definitely an afterthought. This way is much cleaner!
 

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Thanks for this, I went down this route. But I didn't bother with the OptiMate, (might get this later down the line for under the seat).

I got the QuadLock with the USB charger build in, so its all one unit. Still charges my Pixel 3 at 1300mah, which is good enough

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice one - the QuadLock USB charger for motorcycles didn't exist back when I fitted mine.

The perfect solution for me would be a wireless charging head - just clip it on and no wire to the phone. I only ever charge my phone wirelessly these days as it's so convenient.

QuadLock do now make a wireless head for their car mount but there's no easy way to adapt it for motorcycle use as it's not weatherproof and has no central bolt hole to connect to the arm like all the two wheel compatible version. They also say it isn't compatible with universal mounts (which is what I use on a generic phone hard case) ... oh well, maybe one day!
 

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That looks GREAT! I just ordered some of that harness tape. No more electrical tape for me. Really tidy job and good how to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That looks GREAT! I just ordered some of that harness tape. No more electrical tape for me. Really tidy job and good how to.
Thanks Stewart - glad you like.

Once you've used harness tape on your projects you won't go back. Electrical tape is only really useful where you actually need electrical insulation... and it degrades and leaves a grubby residue on stuff when it eventually falls off.
 

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Genius.

Will get to this.

Without using a meter, do you know what colour is the constant feed and which is the switched feed ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks @Cabby :) just thinking outside the box.

If you look closely there are little labels on the harness cables close to the spade socket female connectors at both ends - they were easier to see at the front for me than at the rear.

From memory ACC1 is always on, ACC2 is on with ignition.

I don't remember the colours off-hand though.
 

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That is helpful thanks for posting and the pics. One issue I'm having is how and where to run the lead which is connected under the rear seat, out? For battery charging I just remove the rear seat but say for running heated gear?
 

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Thought I chime in with my "how do I power electrical things" solution for the 790 Duke.

I looked at the PP USB power option which connects to the side of the headlight but decided against it - I wanted power front and rear for one thing and didn't particularly like the bracket or the USB's low power rating.

So I settled on using SAE connectors - they are the kind of connectors used by some battery chargers and also by a few solar systems for DC connections. They are nice and cheap so I bought a pack of 6 blank SAE pigtails off Amazon, the ones I got are about 1 foot (30 cm) long.

They have a waterproof (with cap) SAE connector on one end and plain wire connectors at the other - you need to add some 6mm spade connectors on the bare ends to connect to the wire harness - best to do this with a good crimper.

For neatness I cut some short heat shrink tubing to dress the ends - put this on before you crimp naturally - and apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to shrink onto the wire/crimp connector after.

I also wrapped the whole length in wiring harness tape for a good look - it's a cloth material that sticks to itself.

At the rear, under the pillion seat at the side of the battery are two sets of connectors just peeking out: ACC1 & ACC2. They are spade socket connectors in clear rubber shrouds. ACC1 is always on and ACC2 comes on with the ignition - plug the SAE connector into whichever suits you.

Similar connectors are at the front of the bike behind the headlight cowl.

You completely undo the headlight adjuster screw at the top of the headlight and the headlight unit tilts forward. The screw is captive so won't fall out - I counted the turns so I could put it back without realigning the headlight after. Unplug the headlight connector on the back and then the headlight can tilt all the way forward down and rest on the mudguard/fender.

Behind the headlight you will find a plastic cover held on with three screws, one at the top and two at the bottom - undo these and remove the cover. You will find the front ACC1 and ACC2 connections on the left hand side - they are the same spade sockets as at the rear, same wiring colouring too.

I fed my pigtail down from behind the dash following existing cables and plugged it in keeping the wiring tidy and out the way. Make sure that the SAE connector up top has enough play to hide under the handlebar riser.

Put the cover back on with the three screws and swing the headlight unit back up, connect the headlight connector and push the headlight all the way back up into place then screw the headlight adjusting screw back in with the same number of turns as you used to remove it.

It's easier to do in practice than actually write this - the photos should make it clearer

To convert this all to useable USB power I bought an "OptiMate O100 SAE USB Charger 2400mA" from Amazon too. This lives under the rear seat until I need it along with any USB cables.

The thing I like about this is that it delivers lots of power (~10W) and is smart - it knows when then engine is running and when the engine stops it only supplies power for a further 3 hours then cuts out so it can't drain your bike battery. It also measures battery health too.

All you need now is a USB cable to connect whatever device you need to charge / power. I have a small flexible rubber one for the front (6 inches / 15 cm) - this connects to my phone mounted on a QuadLock bracket attached to the handlebars.

I hope this is useful for folks!
This is a brilliant way of adding power. Much better than the PP option. Thanks very much!
 

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Nice thread. Thanks for digging it up!
 

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Thanks dma this is really great and got me thinking about the most minimal setup I could create having just got my used 19 plate 790 last week and was about to order the ugly PP option.

I picked up one of these - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZYR8XCJ
Along with a couple of spade crimp connectors and heat shrink I have about the place, and some wiring tape (thanks again for the tip dma) hopefully the jobs a good'un.

If I can mount it next to the accessory ports behind the light somewhere and mange to feed the cable up to the bars it's about as cheap (showing my Scottish roots) and minimal as possible. There are of course some downsides:

Can't charge/connect anything that's not usb-c
It's probably not designed for the hard life of KTM vibrations so might die pretty quickly
If something does go wrong anywhere (eg cable starts to perish) the whole unit needs replacing rather than a simple cable swap. I'll look to add some extra sleeving over the usb cable to protect it and I'll need to pick up a cover for the bare end
eg. USB-C Anti-Dust Cap Cover Protector Cable & Port pack,2 Plugs & 2 caps,UK Seller | eBay And I'll probably lose it first ride ¯\(ツ)

Thinking about it now, I'll almost certainly hook up an SAE cable like dma's or a cheapo usb port under seat as backup anyway 😂 But this is all good clean pubs are closed pandemic fun.

If anyone is interested how it goes or sees a disaster in the making let me know.
Thanks again dma for the inspiration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks dma this is really great and got me thinking about the most minimal setup I could create having just got my used 19 plate 790 last week and was about to order the ugly PP option.

I picked up one of these - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZYR8XCJ
Along with a couple of spade crimp connectors and heat shrink I have about the place, and some wiring tape (thanks again for the tip dma) hopefully the jobs a good'un.

If I can mount it next to the accessory ports behind the light somewhere and mange to feed the cable up to the bars it's about as cheap (showing my Scottish roots) and minimal as possible. There are of course some downsides:

Can't charge/connect anything that's not usb-c
It's probably not designed for the hard life of KTM vibrations so might die pretty quickly
If something does go wrong anywhere (eg cable starts to perish) the whole unit needs replacing rather than a simple cable swap. I'll look to add some extra sleeving over the usb cable to protect it and I'll need to pick up a cover for the bare end
eg. USB-C Anti-Dust Cap Cover Protector Cable & Port pack,2 Plugs & 2 caps,UK Seller | eBay And I'll probably lose it first ride ¯\(ツ)

Thinking about it now, I'll almost certainly hook up an SAE cable like dma's or a cheapo usb port under seat as backup anyway 😂 But this is all good clean pubs are closed pandemic fun.

If anyone is interested how it goes or sees a disaster in the making let me know.
Thanks again dma for the inspiration.
Thanks @JJL - happy to have inspired you!

There's not much space behind the headlight when you take the cover off - but that unit might just fit, keep us posted on how you get on.

I would recommend connecting it to the switched (on with ignition) ACC2 connection as DC:DC power converters like that draw power even when not in use - usually only a few milliamps but sometimes more and it can flatten the bike's battery when left for a few weeks without being ridden.

You might want to consider some USB cable dust caps with retaining loops so you don't lose them.
 
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