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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any dealer updates we should know about? I know it's a twin, but down low throttle response can be too jumpy even in street mode. Anyone else experience this?
 

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Jumpy? You mean it wants to wheelie? Thats what these babies were made for I think, personally I know what your saying but give it some time, you might come to like it, I have almost 3 weeks in and I'm loving the Jumpiness!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No sir. What I mean is the throttle response is choppy during low RPM roll on between 2k to 4k-ish RPM, very noticeable coming out of tight corners in 2nd gear. High RPM cornering in the canyons are spot on however.

Anyone experience the same throttle response concern? Is it normal or are there updates to the fuel mapping?

Thanks in advance
 

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Welcome to 790 life and emissions regulations. FZ09 are apparently worse. My wife's CBR600 has a weird transition at around the RPM that emissions testing is done at, go figure.
 

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Welcome to 790 life and emissions regulations. FZ09 are apparently worse.
My FZ09 was certainly as bad. I think it's very common with the lean fuelling dictated by emissions regulations these days. An ECU flash on the FZ09 cured it, but from what I understand it's not that simple with the 790. I haven't really pursued it - I've just accepted the fact it's jerky at low revs.
 

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It's awful really. Anywhere from idle to about 3500revs, mainly in 2nd or 3rd, which is typically where you are through the towns. Street mode is better than Sport. Track throttle response is just unusable in town.
I end up either in Rain mode or use Street and slip the clutch occasionally to smooth things out.
Once it's out of warranty I'll get a fuelling thingy which plugs in and should help.
 

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My FZ09 was certainly as bad. I think it's very common with the lean fuelling dictated by emissions regulations these days. An ECU flash on the FZ09 cured it, but from what I understand it's not that simple with the 790. I haven't really pursued it - I've just accepted the fact it's jerky at low revs.
There's a guy in Europe that changes just the Target AFR section of the mapping and it smooths it out. But then if there's a software update it's all lost. My Rapid Bike Easy module should be here today, I'm hoping that does it for me.
 

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Rapid Bike Easy module is now installed. Street mode is now steady at lower RPM, quite rideable now and fairly smooth. Sport mode at low RPM is also steady, but as expected any bump in the road leads to a throttle change and it wants to go. I haven't beaten on the bike yet with it, we're in a bit of a cold snap this weekend so I was just trying to get home. I have the fuel dial at the recommended +3, so there's room to go if i get an engine light. Getting stuck in traffic after morning twisty road runs sucked before with the jerky fueling so I'm confident that this will help given what I've felt so far.
 

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I’ve just purchased a 2020 ktm 790 and I’m having issues with power serges when accelerating to the point I think it’s dangerous you can be pulling out at a junction turning go to accelerate and the power cuts momentarily causing you to hold on and the bike to change direction not good at all, any one else I can’t be the only one ?
 

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A few solutions were discussed here. I can provide my 2 cents...

1. For me, personally, Sport Mode works better than Street.
2. Did not try, but a lot of members say that going with 15T front sprocket really helps. It makes perfect sense.
3. A good "tune", whether you chose to go with PCV, Coober, ECU reflash or other, is the only way to get rid, partially or completely, of this issue. Will probably require O2 sensors to be disconnected and have the CEL come on.

I am riding in sport Mode and have a PCV installed with a RW map and no O2 sensors. The bike feels significantly better. Not as smooth as my tuned old CBR1000RR, but that one felt like riding and electric bike, in comparison.
 
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Booster plug. I was a doubter but fixed most (not all) low rpm snatchiness on light throttle. Also helps markedly when backing off from higher speeds in that you can hold taller gears longer without having to shift down so early. My opinions only, not connected in any way to manufacturer. Cheers
 

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I’ve just purchased a 2020 ktm 790 and I’m having issues with power serges when accelerating to the point I think it’s dangerous you can be pulling out at a junction turning go to accelerate and the power cuts momentarily causing you to hold on and the bike to change direction not good at all, any one else I can’t be the only one ?
Mark - When did a good KTM tech last look at the bike?. Here - the KTM dealers will reflash the ECU at every service - especially under warranty. The ECU does adapt (albeit very slowly) to how it's ridden. It's noticeable. Might be worth a shot.
Part of the issue is that the 790 has very low inertial mass - You need to keep the revs up above 2500 really - declutch and blip if you need to back off momentarily.
All the options - Flash, PCV etc help. But not 100% (nothing ever does).
I run a COOBER. It offers a much finer delta in rpm detection.
The COOBER does retain the Lambda's and lies to the OEM ECU.

I too ride "SPORT". And have the 15T front.
 

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I’ve just purchased a 2020 ktm 790 and I’m having issues with power serges when accelerating to the point I think it’s dangerous you can be pulling out at a junction turning go to accelerate and the power cuts momentarily causing you to hold on and the bike to change direction not good at all, any one else I can’t be the only one ?
I’ve just purchased a 2020 ktm 790 and I’m having issues with power serges when accelerating to the point I think it’s dangerous you can be pulling out at a junction turning go to accelerate and the power cuts momentarily causing you to hold on and the bike to change direction not good at all, any one else I can’t be the only one ?
I’ve just purchased a 2020 ktm 790 and I’m having issues with power serges when accelerating to the point I think it’s dangerous you can be pulling out at a junction turning go to accelerate and the power cuts momentarily causing you to hold on and the bike to change direction not good at all, any one else I can’t be the only one ?
The fueling on my 790 is not even remotely like you describe. Maybe get your dealer to check it out.
 

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Mark - When did a good KTM tech last look at the bike?. Here - the KTM dealers will reflash the ECU at every service - especially under warranty. The ECU does adapt (albeit very slowly) to how it's ridden. It's noticeable. Might be worth a shot.
Part of the issue is that the 790 has very low inertial mass - You need to keep the revs up above 2500 really - declutch and blip if you need to back off momentarily.
All the options - Flash, PCV etc help. But not 100% (nothing ever does).
I run a COOBER. It offers a much finer delta in rpm detection.
The COOBER does retain the Lambda's and lies to the OEM ECU.

I too ride "SPORT". And have the 15T front.
 

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Hi, thanks so it’s done 2900 miles so only had its running in service, I took it to a local Ktm dealer who had a ride in a car park but didn’t do it, so will book it in another dealer and insist they keep it for a while as I feel it could be dangerous in the sense that if I’m pulling out of a junction and something is coming and the bike decides to hold back it won’t end well.
 

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Hi, thanks so it’s done 2900 miles so only had its running in service, I took it to a local Ktm dealer who had a ride in a car park but didn’t do it, so will book it in another dealer and insist they keep it for a while as I feel it could be dangerous in the sense that if I’m pulling out of a junction and something is coming and the bike decides to hold back it won’t end well.
What you describe isn't the usual low rev snatchiness caused by lean fuelling. For it to lose power when you get on the gas indicates a bigger issue. Good luck with getting it sorted - hope the dealership is competent enough to diagnose the problem.
 
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