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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here is a follow up to some of the front brake issues i have been having:
New Rage Cycles sent me the replacement brake lights and turn signals that had died , and they work exactly like they should - so thank you NRC for the support!
So I have been riding in to work everyday this week so far , and my co worker who rides in as well told me my brake light is always on now!
Second part of the saga is about a week ago , my front brake felt mushy like there was no pressure unless i engaged the lever several times to build up pressure. So i bled the front brake and it worked great for about three days.
Would these two issues be related ? (Brake light always on and front brake not holding pressure ?)
There are no leaks on any of the exposed components .
Last night i loosened the MC cap and zip tied the brake lever to the handle bar to do the over night air purge . I checked this morning and the pressure feels perfect .
I didn't ride in today for reasons , so i haven't checked the brake light situation.
Has anyone had anything similar happen ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update -
So the brake lever zip tie over night worked perfectly, the front brake feel really firm and I can one finger stop the bike now.
The light however stays on constantly.
I did install a strobe unit for the brake light so cars can at least see I’m stopping.
The rear brake lever doesn’t activate the brake light at all.
 

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Try removing that and see if the problems changes.
Probably the unit. Try to take it off and see if it fixes the problem.

I have something similar on the 1290SA. Although it works well, the ECU still registers an error. I guess that 790 does something similar, or you might have installed/configured the unit incorrectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The brake light was on constantly before I installed the flasher. It only dimmed for a micro second when I flicked the front brake lever.
After the strobe module was hooked up , the brake light would strobe like it should when I activated the lever. That’s the only way to indicate to cars that I’m hitting the brakes right now.
 

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Perhaps the brake light for the NRC tail tidy is wired up incorrectly after you did the replacement? Sounds like it's on when it should be off, and tries to turn off when it should be turning on. This theory would also probably explain why the strobe module works, because strobing would work regardless of whether the default state of the brake light was on or off ... Either way, best way to approach is systematically eliminating each step in the process until you find the culprit; I'd start with wiring of the brake light and work from there. The suggestion that barbagris and QCS made is definitely a solid one; reduce the number of possible points of failure and complexity of the system you're trying to 'debug' and it will make your life easier.
 

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Not a bad idea, but if it were me I'd do at least cursory check on the wiring for the NRC unit first, to reduce the potential for confusion and second-guessing; I'm assuming you didn't change the internal wiring upstream of the brake light connections and therefore that has remained constant/consistent throughout, thereby basically eliminating it as a suspect. So I'd do a full switch out as a last resort basically if you can't figure it out in its current state, but that's just lazy old me trying to cut down the amount of work I'd have to do ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Indeed.
My concern with the light constantly on is that when i hooked up the NRC tail tidy last year , everything worked as it should , no issues.
Then the NRC light dies , swapped out worked for a little while , and now back to constantly on.
Frustrating.
But the wiring is easily accessible and i can plug in the Stock tail light pretty quickly just for the test.
My fear is the pressure switch is dead ...
 

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I can't say with certainty, but given that your brake strobe module is working it would suggest that the pressure switch still works (to a degree, perhaps not entirely as it should be); the assumption here being that the strobe module relies on a signal from the pressure switch and if it works, then its getting SOME signal from that pressure switch to trigger it ... now whether or not that pressure switch is sending the right signal is a more complicated one to deal with ... electrical gremlins are never fun to track down and address, good luck Pork Chop!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally got tired of the air bubbles in the master cylinder and took the bike to the dealer.
They just called after having the bike for two week - they said both front and rear pressure switches are faulty. He quoted me over $400 USD for replacement and brake bleeding .
I asked if the parts would be covered under KTM warranty as its less than two years old and has fewer than 6000 miles. He said he would speak to the service manager about the cost and the issue being KTMs responsibility.
Now I wait with no bike and a lot of doubt...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got the bike back Saturday ! Both front and rear pressure switches were replaced , brakes bled at KTMs cost.
The front brake was still very soft for the first 20 miles or so as the bike sat for a few weeks waiting for KTM to agree to the service charges.
 
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