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Discussion Starter #1
I got three oil filters from eBay for $10.
The K&N is $10
OEM is $17

Can I trust the eBay filters?
 

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Correct me if I’m wrong, but using an other than oem filter will void your 2 year warranty in the event of an engine related issue.

I did however use Hi-Flo filters for my other 2 Husqvarnas, but they were out of warranty.
 

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It's simple math for me:

$17/yr vs $10/yr

$17 = no issues with a warranty and I have the engineered product for my bike.
$10 = I loved K&N for 6-7 years (easy peasy safety wire lock nut - win!) but 5-6 years ago they moved to offshore production and they got so bad that almost all Racing Org's banned them for repeated failures. I think they may once again be made in N.A. but I'll use OEM for the 2 years then like JD, likely go to Hi-Flo which is my go to product usually and they run about $12 locally and perform great in the tests/comparo's I've seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's simple math for me:

$17/yr vs $10/yr

$17 = no issues with a warranty and I have the engineered product for my bike.
$10 = I loved K&N for 6-7 years (easy peasy safety wire lock nut - win!) but 5-6 years ago they moved to offshore production and they got so bad that almost all Racing Org's banned them for repeated failures. I think they may once again be made in N.A. but I'll use OEM for the 2 years then like JD, likely go to Hi-Flo which is my go to product usually and they run about $12 locally and perform great in the tests/comparo's I've seen.
I don't know what I was thinking trying to save a buck.
One oem filter will last a year for me based on my riding.

But I'm sticking to Rotella T6.
 

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I don't know what I was thinking trying to save a buck.
One oem filter will last a year for me based on my riding.

But I'm sticking to Rotella T6.
Hey, it's EXACTLY the benefit to a members based site like this - you get to bounce ideas and thoughts off the membership and see what the group consensus is - always ask the question - costs you nothing right?!

I'm also a fan of Rotella from my racing days and that's a conversation I'll be having with my mechanic and trusted KTM advisors in a couple weeks once I'm due for a fluid swap. :grin:
 

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Wow,

I don't know how everyone gets buy with only 1 oil change a year... I must change oil too often. With my new bike, I'll change after 100 - 150 miles of abuse. Then again at 600, then every 3000 street miles, and one last time at the end of the year so 4 or 5 changes for the Duke this year. I'll be using the OEM on the duke as I can pick one up so easy 2 miles down the road. For my Daytona I use HiFlo... and I change the oil on that every 3 - 4 track days (8 times last season).

I used to use Rotella, but as most of my bikes have a catalytic converter, I have moved away from it as I thought it was supposed to be hard on them. I use Castrol Power 1 now.

Cheers,
 

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Wow,

I don't know how everyone gets buy with only 1 oil change a year... I must change oil too often. With my new bike, I'll change after 100 - 150 miles of abuse. Then again at 600, then every 3000 street miles, and one last time at the end of the year so 4 or 5 changes for the Duke this year. I'll be using the OEM on the duke as I can pick one up so easy 2 miles down the road. For my Daytona I use HiFlo... and I change the oil on that every 3 - 4 track days (8 times last season).

I used to use Rotella, but as most of my bikes have a catalytic converter, I have moved away from it as I thought it was supposed to be hard on them. I use Castrol Power 1 now.

Cheers,
I think I mentioned it earlier - it's been HARD getting my head wrapped back around street service intervals after going on race bike intervals for so many years - that and the fact manufacturers suddenly bumped up intervals on their new models in the past 5 years from 3000 miles (5000km's) to 5000 miles (8000kms) or in our case 6000 miles (10,000kms). Better manufacturing tolerances, better machining, better oil quality, etc... so it makes sense - just seemed to happen rather quickly.

In the past for streetbikes I'd have my new bikes broken in on the dyno, dump oil at 50-80 miles, flash ECU, tune for the mods like exhaust, and dump the oil again at 1000km's, then every 5000kms after unless I threw in a few track days into the mix.

So far on this 790 I've waited for the 1000km forst service, and now sit at 6000kms and am really stressed over the thought of leaving it for another 5000kms until it's recommended.
 

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So far on this 790 I've waited for the 1000km forst service, and now sit at 6000kms and am really stressed over the thought of leaving it for another 5000kms until it's recommended.
It's mileage or time, you're due by time the same as I am at 4000km. ;)
 

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It's mileage or time, you're due by time the same as I am at 4000km. ;)
In my infinite wisdom I call BS on the time parameter - no way acid build up or whatever can kill an oil by just sitting in a perfectly warm garage all winter.

Or can it? Arghh!?!?!?!?!?!

Guess I'll have to call my trusted motorcycle dealership parts expert and order up some oil and a filter - thanks Rick!


(for those other than Rick, my trusted expert is his Fiance) :grin:
 

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In my infinite wisdom I call BS on the time parameter - no way acid build up or whatever can kill an oil by just sitting in a perfectly warm garage all winter.

Or can it? Arghh!?!?!?!?!?!

Guess I'll have to call my trusted motorcycle dealership parts expert and order up some oil and a filter - thanks Rick!


(for those other than Rick, my trusted expert is his Fiance) :grin:
You're due, just do it! Even if the oil was ok it'll be much happier with fresh Motorex, a proper oil change is always the cheapest maintenance you can do. My BMW can live with the 1500km on year-old oil, it's a low-stress 200hp. 790's are feisty, we don't ride them like sunday cruisers. Richard kept using Motorex in his big-bore sumo, his cams at rebuild time were absolutely perfect. Laura will say the same thing. :)

Also, as a mechanic, varnishes can build up even in a heated garage. They get absorbed by the detergents in the oil and need to get out of your lovely engine so the oil can do it's job again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Based on the KTM Owner's Manual, the oil change interval is 9,300 miles (10k). Why should I challenge it?
I own bmx bicycles for the last 10 years. My oil change interval is about 10,000 miles/year. These vehicles are over 125,000 miles, and the engines have not exploded. Any interval less than the recommended is a waste of money.

I don't even use Mobil 1!

I own a Honda CRF250R since new in 2004. It's a track bike, but I'm just a novice rider. I only change the oil once a year. It's still running on the original engine. I've only adjusted the valves once. :)

You guys are wasting your money.
 

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In the past for streetbikes I'd have my new bikes broken in on the dyno, dump oil at 50-80 miles, flash ECU, tune for the mods like exhaust, and dump the oil again at 1000km's, then every 5000kms after unless I threw in a few track days into the mix.
Yea, this sounds close to what I like to do... except I'm too cheap for dyno time... I stay away from exhaust, air box and other mods that would require a tune.
 

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Based on the KTM Owner's Manual, the oil change interval is 9,300 miles (10k). Why should I challenge it?
I own Porsche Turbos for the last 10 years. My oil change interval is about 10,000 miles/year. These vehicles are over 125,000 miles, and the engines have not exploded. Any interval less than the recommended is a waste of money.

I don't even use Mobil 1!

I own a Honda CRF250R since new in 2004. It's a track bike, but I'm just a novice rider. I only change the oil once a year. It's still running on the original engine. I've only adjusted the valves once. :)

You guys are wasting your money.
10k miles is fine for a Porch, they have twice the oil capacity of a normal car in the dry sump tank. When BMW went from 7500mi to 15000mi interval it wasn't because of a design change, they only did it because they started including free oil changes during the warranty period and they didn't want to actually spend money. Every one of them that I've seen go that long is a carboned up pile of problems, while mine is pristine inside and dead reliable when done at 7500mi for the last 10 years I've owned it. Similar story with the VW's I work on, 10k mile interval in the book but you have to do it every 5k miles or it'll coke up and run out of oil. Porch with their Mobil1, VW/Audi/BMW with their Castrol, it's all just whoever can meet the oil spec and give a good bulk rate for all of the dealerships. Engines are designed to use oil with certain additive types and amounts, using non-spec oil is a bad time in the long run.

Those CRF years are super common to sink valve seats, it's happened to a friend of mine. How much do you use it?
 

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Based on the KTM Owner's Manual, the oil change interval is 9,300 miles (10k). Why should I challenge it?
You raise a valid point.

With all the enhancements in technology, and premium additives to oil, I tend to extend 3rd oil change to around 7500 miles, (depending on severity of use).

Of course there are many of us from the old school, that remember the magical number of 3000 miles to change oil in most everything, haha, perhaps with the modern additives, those days are past?

There is something psychologically satisfying about dumping new bike oil at 50-100 miles, seeing all the bits of metal filings at the bottom, and knowing you just removed a nice chunk of aggregate from your motorcycles' blood flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
10k miles is fine for a Porch, they have twice the oil capacity of a normal car in the dry sump tank. When BMW went from 7500mi to 15000mi interval it wasn't because of a design change, they only did it because they started including free oil changes during the warranty period and they didn't want to actually spend money. Every one of them that I've seen go that long is a carboned up pile of problems, while mine is pristine inside and dead reliable when done at 7500mi for the last 10 years I've owned it. Similar story with the VW's I work on, 10k mile interval in the book but you have to do it every 5k miles or it'll coke up and run out of oil. Porch with their Mobil1, VW/Audi/BMW with their Castrol, it's all just whoever can meet the oil spec and give a good bulk rate for all of the dealerships. Engines are designed to use oil with certain additive types and amounts, using non-spec oil is a bad time in the long run.

Those CRF years are super common to sink valve seats, it's happened to a friend of mine. How much do you use it?
So Rick, You're just the man I want to ask. :)
Is the SN+ oil spec meets the Porsche requirements? I have a 996 and Panamera Turbo/Cayenne Turbo. Currently, I'm using Rotella T6 for both the cars and all of my motorcycles. My wife's Japanese Nissan gets the cheapy oil like the cheapest I can find.

I used to ride motocross once a week for 2-3 hours at the track between 1989 and 2016. Now, I don't ride track anymore but only single track trails.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Yea, this sounds close to what I like to do... except I'm too cheap for dyno time... I stay away from exhaust, air box and other mods that would require a tune.
OMG. I haven't change oil in my Polaris Ranger ATV in 5 years. I figured....it has Mobil 1 in it, and it only gets used may be 20 hours per year.
Same for my Ford 7.3 diesel. It gets an oil change once every 3 years. LOL
I'm just really lazy!
 

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Oils degrade - all commercial oils contain detergents and they are by definition acidic. The issue is that over time they can and often will additionally absorb water - which allows acids to actually work via hydrolysis. Heat cycling really gets this going.

The cheapest way to keep any engine in good form is change ALL the oil (including what's in the filter) often. I confess to not being a good practitioner of what I here preach.

I have a really good mate in the UK - he runs a very good single marque garage. Not KTM. The factory said 5000mile oil change. He says 1500. I know of nobody following his regime who has had any failure. Whereas factory cycle bikes do. This maybe chance - but he's a member of the UK Chartered Engineers and did the R&D.
 
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