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Discussion Starter #21
The Givi bars are on. Very simple. Did find one teensey error in the instructions (a spacer indicated on the wrong side - was fairly obvious as it would not go in the hole indicated and there was a gap t'other side) and it makes life easier if you slacken the top footrest bolts. I'd recommend you have a thread chaser as they were all full of cruddy old threadlocker. Pictures later.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
A couple of piccies. The supplied sliders are pretty much anecdotal due to the bars shape. Will fit some "pugs" unless I decide to add some lights or better horns. Another day!.

My knees/legs get nowhere near. L/H side bottom bolt a wide welt on a boot might catch on the bolt head - Easy enough to find a button-head bolt. R/H side it makes the brake lever easier to find.
 

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@barbagris Considering getting them, may I ask you a few questions about them?
  • How do you like them after 6 months?
  • Do they protect the tank too?
  • Do they complicate any regular maintenance? Looks like they come close to the oil cap, for example.
  • Is it possible to fit a slider-puck on that bridge with three holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
@barbagris Considering getting them, may I ask you a few questions about them?
  • How do you like them after 6 months?
  • Do they protect the tank too?
  • Do they complicate any regular maintenance? Looks like they come close to the oil cap, for example.
  • Is it possible to fit a slider-puck on that bridge with three holes?
1) Still happy.
2) Happily I have not found out - but I strongly doubt that any except RDmoto and the Russian ones somebody posted will either. And the really snazzy Japanese stainless one naturally.
3) So far no impact at all - though it's only fair to say that COVID19 means it's not be ridden that much in the last 70 days.
4) Yes - There are 3 holes in the brace - ready drilled. 1*8mm, 1*10mm and 1*12mm each side. More as a aesthetics thing - but yup you can. You may need to make some spacers to clear welds and such. Oddly - I was contemplating some lumps of Delrin today and wondered about making some up. With a Lathe and Endmill at my disposal - pretty much anything can be made to fit.
 

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Thought I would add my 2 cents:
I have the pp bobbins from Europe. They are meant to break off in case of contact, leaving a nut to take out the rest. I haven't tested that yet (thankfully).

However, someone rear ended me before I added those bobbins and this is what saved my bike from being a write off: wheel sliders (F&R and on passenger pegs), and flip up levers. The tank surround did touch, and the R brake pedal pushed into the exhaust to get stuck and leave a mark. Since it was so new, all parts with any marks were replaced by insurance.

Since then, I added a frame slider from evotech which now keeps the tank off the ground.
4613
 

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4613[/ATTACH]
Since it was so new, all parts with any marks were replaced by insurance.

Since then, I added a frame slider View attachment 4613
Hi guys, I’ll sneak in the conversation with a question;

I’m thinking about getting various sliders and even engine case covers to protect the bike, but still haven’t made my mind yet. If the insurance pays for damage anyways, what’s the point in buying protection for the bike?

Does a reclamation make insurance cost much more for the following years and that’s why people put frame sliders etc?

Could some of you clarify this for me?

Thanks!!
 

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Hi guys, I’ll sneak in the conversation with a question;

I’m thinking about getting various sliders and even engine case covers to protect the bike, but still haven’t made my mind yet. If the insurance pays for damage anyways, what’s the point in buying protection for the bike?

Does a reclamation make insurance cost much more for the following years and that’s why people put frame sliders etc?

Could some of you clarify this for me?

Thanks!!
In my case, had the bike had NO sliders etc, the swing arm, exhaust, bars, mirror, tank surround, pegs (f&r), brake disks, and fork damage (all mostly scratches) would have written the bike off due to replacement costs (to return it to new (it was 23 hrs since it rolled out of the dealers lot to getting hit)). The sliders did keep it from sustaining more damage for sure. It was almost $5000 as it was. This was a pretty unique case but it is my experience anyway.
 

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Yea - I added front and rear axle bobbins as soon as I got the bike because they were dirt cheap & easy to fit and they compliment the bike I think. You don't really notice them.

After @barbagris suggestion I recently added the pillion seat sliders too - cheap too and will hopefully take the brunt if it goes over. The pillion seat hangers are great protection I think so won't be removing them.

I've only ever dropped a bike once, at a standstill - just overbalanced coming to a stop on a wrong camber and could not stop the inevitable slow fall-over where leg was too short to reach the far away ground. Grazed brake lever end and bust the plastic hand-guard cover but made a decent expensive hole in the plastic tank surround.

I'm not sure the price of the KTM plastics but those engine bars (H&B / Givi with a puck) could save that I reckon.
The one piece tank shroud is anywhere from 150 bucks up to over 300 buck (all carbonfiber) , I too laid my bike over (damn bicyclist) at slow speed and I think I got very luck, left side scratch on the tank shroud and some minor scuffs on the lever and bar end. Not sure if my front end twisted, anyone have a way to check? Greatly appreciated
 
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