[banned]

Ho maan, I hope you get it sorted/installed, with all that effort you put in. Hopefully others’ who’ve done it could chime in?

Nobody's done it before in the USA, at least not on an 890. I got the first one.

 

[Paul Rees]

That's what they'd like you to think. They told me:

"actually there is no install manual at all inside the ecu box. installation of the ecu on the 890 duke, takes normally between 6 and 10 minutes. its only 12 srews, 2 ziptie and that's it. only tool you need is torx 25 and side cutter"

BS!!! The only thing true there is that there are no instructions in the box. If you take the tank off (which is completely necessary for me with my large hands which now have cuts all over them) there are about 30 "srews", and it takes a T30 Torx, not a T25. Oh the side cutter part is right, but there are four zipties to cut and replace not two.

I was set to buy a coober for my 790 but just about everything they put out smacks of marketing B/S, including the continual rubbishing of their competitors products. At this stage I am going to give it a miss. Be interesting to see how their comments
on 890 oil issues plays out.

 

[Pgm]

I was set to buy a coober for my 790 but just about everything they put out smacks of marketing B/S, including the continual rubbishing of their competitors products. At this stage I am going to give it a miss. Be interesting to see how their comments
on 890 oil issues plays out.

Totally what puts me off of coober.

 

[banned]

The guy at Coober USA (Aaron) is great, very responsive. But he is dealing with the Coober EU guys who are pretty unhelpful.

I agree, I smell lots of marketing BS here. Even their own dyno chart with their unit installed shows pretty poor performance numbers, although it does fatten up the midrange. I was never able to get a straight answer out of Coober EU about the small throttle / low RPM stuff other than this:

we have fix the closed loop are to a certain level, to still keep the piston expansion. the bike become bit more smooth in the bottom and mid range.

Pretty vague answer, IMO. Anyway, I'm done with them. I uninstalled it again this morning and have it packaged up ready to go back.

 

[banned]

Got it all returned to stock with the Coober stuff uninstalled. Fired right up, runs great, no errors.

 

[Lonster]

I had zero issues with the PCV I installed.
Power Commander for the win! (Jut kidding)

 

[banned]

I had zero issues with the PCV I installed.
Power Commander for the win! (Jut kidding)

Yep I have installed several PCV on several different bikes. Worked great on all of them and they were way easier to install than this thing.

 

[wallycycle]

Got it all returned to stock with the Coober stuff uninstalled. Fired right up, runs great, no errors.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" .

Sorry you had such a bad experience.

 

[Blwnbyu]

I have never seen a Coober product that looked like it was worth a ****.

 

[wallycycle]

In general, on the 890 what is the desired result(s) of installing a fueling kit? More power? Fix a fueling issue? Aftermarket exhaust fuel modifications? The only fueling anomaly (being really picky) on my bike is that it's a bit fluffy right off idle in first gear pulling away but it's very minor. Other than that, it fuels great everywhere.

Before buying my 890, I looked at a local 790 with an Akrapovic and Coober. When the guy started it up, it fired up only on the third or fourth try and then he had to hold the throttle open manually to keep it running. He said it runs great once warmed up.

I walked away.

 

[banned]

I was looking for improved rideability. The bike in stock form has quite a power dip in the 5k to 6k rpm range, and is rough at very small throttle openings and low rpm. I don't care about a few HP more at redline, because I seldom wind in up that high and seldom run at full throttle. I might do a PCV for this, but won't be using a Coober.

 

[barbagris]

I have no wish, here anyway, to be classified the great satan. I may be his advocate however - rather often too.

My Coober didn't work first time either - so I took it off. Breathed deeply (rather annoyed), and spoke with Coober (albeit via WINGS).
Refitted it , being very very careful with all connectors and it fired straight up. The difference is notable.
There are four ignition connectors and any one of them reversed will stop the blighter starting.
It's like Gregor Johann Mendel all over, just reversed.

imo worth a second try. It is designed to address EXACTLY that weird mid-range bit.

It's NOT a fueling solution. It cannot be as it has zero access to the AFR values.

And for those dissing it - what other Coober solutions have you seen.? - Seriously! - Because prior to buying a KTM I'd never heard of them. I am always open to data.

Interesting that the AR ATOM is the same box and nobody has a go at them. Well not that I have seen.

I suspect language support is the issue - and oddly (maybe not) it seems to be more an issue in non-German speaking countries. YES! - I do speak German.

In France it seems to be a defacto recommendation from KTM dealers.
Here (Spain) we tend to be more Catholic than the Pope - so if the EU says no add-ons, well no add-ons it is. But my dealer took one look and winked (conspiratorially).

Still, we all have to learn from our experiences, and decide accordingly.

Breathe deep. I do not endorse involuntary apnea.

 

[J D]

Been a minute since I watched that video.. 😂

Here (Spain) we tend to be more Catholic than the Pope - so if the EU says no add-ons, well no add-ons it is. But my dealer took one look and winked (conspiratorially).

Expect a knock from the Guardia Civil..

 

[barbagris]

Expect a knock from the Guardia Civil..

Again?

 

[J D]

Again?

Make them some espresso.

 

[banned]

Coober could supply some decent instructions. Like how to mate a connector that has yellow blue and white wires to one that has orange grey and brown wires, especially when it can be connected incorrectly. That would be very helpful.

You can't even tell a connector is installed wrong without completely installing the thing and see if it works. If it doesn't, you have to do a bunch of teardown to even have a look at the connectors.

The pitifully inadequate instructions that don't even come with it (yes, you can download them, but they are not supplied with it) are a joke. Bad black & white photos of the connectors are not a manual. Good instructions with good photos in COLOR and some actual WORDS would help a LOT. But they are arrogant, bad communicators and lie like crazy. 6-10 minutes? BS.

Perhaps someone with more patience than I will be successful.

But no matter. It's uninstalled, packaged, and waiting for the post office to open tomorrow.

 

[Pgm]

I have no wish, here anyway, to be classified the great satan. I may be his advocate however - rather often too.

My Coober didn't work first time either - so I took it off. Breathed deeply (rather annoyed), and spoke with Coober (albeit via WINGS).
Refitted it , being very very careful with all connectors and it fired straight up. The difference is notable.
There are four ignition connectors and any one of them reversed will stop the blighter starting.
It's like Gregor Johann Mendel all over, just reversed.

imo worth a second try. It is designed to address EXACTLY that weird mid-range bit.

It's NOT a fueling solution. It cannot be as it has zero access to the AFR values.

And for those dissing it - what other Coober solutions have you seen.? - Seriously! - Because prior to buying a KTM I'd never heard of them. I am always open to data.

Interesting that the AR ATOM is the same box and nobody has a go at them. Well not that I have seen.

I suspect language support is the issue - and oddly (maybe not) it seems to be more an issue in non-German speaking countries. YES! - I do speak German.

In France it seems to be a defacto recommendation from KTM dealers.
Here (Spain) we tend to be more Catholic than the Pope - so if the EU says no add-ons, well no add-ons it is. But my dealer took one look and winked (conspiratorially).

Still, we all have to learn from our experiences, and decide accordingly.

Breathe deep. I do not endorse involuntary apnea.

there have been some people having problems with the AR atom, strange how it’s the same unit but coober says your engine blows up if you remove the cat and AR sells non cat full systems.

 

[barbagris]

there have been some people having problems with the AR atom, strange how it’s the same unit but coober says your engine blows up if you remove the cat and AR sells non cat full systems.

Ah - not seen that. But this is now the only English speaking KTM site I visit.

What COOBER and KTM say (from what I have read - I have not personally asked) is that the cat delete systems are fine IF you are pretty much in WOT all the time.
But pretty much any decent DYNO tuner will tell you that the real challenge for engines is low throttle like slow traffic and even tickover. And that is pretty much road use.

I have some limited experience of trying to attack this on my own with a PCV-Autotune-POD300 on a Euro3 Triumph with backup from a collection of really good tuners. I love techie stuff, really love it. But wrapping my head around it all gives me headaches - the terminology alone is a PITA as it's not always "universal". A divide and conquer tactic.

AR do (or did) a CAT DELETE version of the ATOM iirc. COO BER afaicr never have - because (at a guess) they simply do not want the hassle.

I have no issue at all if somebody tries a COOBER and does not like the result, and in all truth a PCV might be what they need - BUT - from reading Rottweilers blog, I think we'll find it is the IGNITION box from Power Commander that really does the trick.

Note there is a mod - FREE - that has proven Dyno benefit at low-mid rpms (but from same dyno) has an impact on top end. There are two rubber snorkels that feed air in from the side grills into the pre-filter section of the airbox. I need to try this. But I simply do not have the knack/strength to simply pull them out. It all has to do with the Helmholtz effects. If you run WOT a lot then DO NOT DO THIS.

I have tried the filter top plate - honestly - I do not think it helps much. To the extent I took it off.

Still there it is.

 

[Kevin McDonald]

Long response deleted. I'm done.

Why start this topic and then delete all your comments?

 

[Van]

I have no wish, here anyway, to be classified the great satan. I may be his advocate however - rather often too.

My Coober didn't work first time either - so I took it off. Breathed deeply (rather annoyed), and spoke with Coober (albeit via WINGS).
Refitted it , being very very careful with all connectors and it fired straight up. The difference is notable.
There are four ignition connectors and any one of them reversed will stop the blighter starting.
It's like Gregor Johann Mendel all over, just reversed.

imo worth a second try. It is designed to address EXACTLY that weird mid-range bit.

It's NOT a fueling solution. It cannot be as it has zero access to the AFR values.

And for those dissing it - what other Coober solutions have you seen.? - Seriously! - Because prior to buying a KTM I'd never heard of them. I am always open to data.

Interesting that the AR ATOM is the same box and nobody has a go at them. Well not that I have seen.

I suspect language support is the issue - and oddly (maybe not) it seems to be more an issue in non-German speaking countries. YES! - I do speak German.

In France it seems to be a defacto recommendation from KTM dealers.

So, are you saying that KTM dealers in France recommend to install a Coober?
Interesting