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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My Coober Power Kit is supposed to arrive tomorrow, so I did most of the teardown this morning...



 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Haha... Coober says this thing takes 6-10 minutes to install. It took me 1/2 hour just to get the plastic bits off and loosen and raise the tank.

After another hour of disconnecting and trying to move stuff, I have exactly ONE of the 12 connectors hooked up (TPS) and even that one is only one of the pair. I have it plugged into the TPS connector, but have not been able to connect the other 1/2 of the pair to the OEM connector. There is no room.

I'll get it, but this is a MAJOR PITA to install.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
OK, got both sides of the TPS connected. It's really hot in my garage, gotta take a break.

6-10 minutes, my ass.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'll finish it in the morning. It's about 95F in the garage, it will be cool in the morning.
 

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103 Posts
When I installed the PCV, I fully removed the tank as well. You really have to. There is very little space in the engine compartment, and the 2 coil connections were the most difficult for my fat hands. Are you going to eliminate the charcoal canister while you're in there? It's a good time to do it, if you have the info and parts to do it. Good luck and thanks for the write up.
 

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1,241 Posts
I have exactly ONE of the 12 connectors hooked up (TPS) and even that one is only one of the pair. I have it plugged into the TPS connector, but have not been able to connect the other 1/2 of the pair to the OEM connector. There is no room.
I cheated and ran one of the TPS wires outside the TPS unit - Wrapped in black tape.
The bugger being the first time I ran the wires it went in first time.

MAKE SURE YOU GET THE COIL PLUG DONE PROPERLY - they will go in reversed - Match the wire colors.

In hindsight - I wish I had removed the tank too.

And definitely wish I had a lift!.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
MAKE SURE YOU GET THE COIL PLUG DONE PROPERLY - they will go in reversed - Match the wire colors.
I was very careful with that. It appears the connectors have changed because you cannot connect them wrong, I tried. And the wire colors in the Coober harness do not match the OEM colors.

And definitely wish I had a lift!.
I agree, the lift is wonderful.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Are you going to eliminate the charcoal canister while you're in there? It's a good time to do it, if you have the info and parts to do it.
No, I'll leave it in on this bike. I removed it on my SDR because it gave me storage space. On this bike it wouldn't give me anything but a tiny weight loss, so I will leave it.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Got it all back together. It won't start. Displaying an MTC error. Exhaust smells strongly of raw fuel. In about 10 starting attempts, got one pop.

Barbagris warned about the ignition coils being possible to connect wrong, and although I was very careful and tried hard to get them right, Coober does not make it any easier by using their own totally unrelated wiring colors in the matching plugs.

Oh well. Tear it down again. This job has been a nightmare. PCV is way easier to install.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Removed the tank and the inner right side cover again to allow access to the ignition coil connectors. Now fighting again to get them unsnapped from the metal brackets they are on so I can inspect the connectors.

I wrote to Coober USA and they also think one of the ignition connectors could be plugged in wrong. Not sure why that would cause an MTC error. They also offered to give me a return label and 100% refund. I may take them up on that and just put it back to stock.
 

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a d m i n .
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151,015 Posts
Ho maan, I hope you get it sorted/installed, with all that effort you put in. Hopefully others’ who’ve done it could chime in?
 

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1,241 Posts
PCV is way easier to install.
True - but it does less!.

Start connecting up other wires to get map/gear - MAP pressure input - temp input and it soon turns into a rat's-nest-clusterfuk unless you are fastidious about wire coding and shielding. Add Auto-Tune and the POD and all of a sudden it is a real PITA to remember what wire is what. Ask me how I know :unsure::whistle::coffee:
 

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I don't like using piggy-back devices of any kind. I'll wait for Shiv at OFT to finish mapping this bike. Then it will be a simple matter of flashing the ECU in about 5 minutes, with the ability to go back to the stock map in another 5 minutes. No taking half the bike apart to install, connect one plug, that's it. A piggy-back device cannot do what a flash can do; it's just that simple. I have the OFT for my Super Duke R, and it's flawless. I realize you had issues, but I didn't.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I never had OFT on my SDR. I had PCV & AutoTune on my SDR and it was fantastic. OFT was on my Tuono, and it was nasty, really rough at small throttle openings, and they would not even ack my requests for a fix.

I'm glad it works great for you on your SDR.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
OK, stick a fork in me, I'm done. After several more hours disassembly, checking / troubleshooting and reassembly, same thing. Won't start, has a "TC!" error on the display.

I am going to uninstall the whole mess tomorrow and return it to stock. I don't need this kind of grief. Sending it back for a refund.
 

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Cry Baby
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Wow! I had no idea the install was so involved. I thought you just had to remove the pillion cover and plug it in.
That's what they'd like you to think. They told me:

"actually there is no install manual at all inside the ecu box. installation of the ecu on the 890 duke, takes normally between 6 and 10 minutes. its only 12 srews, 2 ziptie and that's it. only tool you need is torx 25 and side cutter"

BS!!! The only thing true there is that there are no instructions in the box. If you take the tank off (which is completely necessary for me with my large hands which now have cuts all over them) there are about 30 "srews", and it takes a T30 Torx, not a T25. Oh the side cutter part is right, but there are four zipties to cut and replace not two.
 
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