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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,
I'm writing this thread hoping to help new KTM790 owners even myself. Your comments will be very appreciated :)

I followed the manufacture recommendations, added-on my own experience and readings on how to break-in the engine.

Manufacturer break-in procedure:
  • Revs up to 6500RPMs
  • Do not full throttle
  • Avoid highways
  • Procedure duration: 1000 km (600 miles)
My break-in procedure:
General recommendations
  • Warm up the engine before riding - 2/3 minutes just the time to dress up;
  • No rush in breaking-in, full cooldown cycles are very important;
  • RPMs variation most as possible (up and down engine pressure are important for a proper seal);
  • Avoid highways (constant speeds/RPMs);
  • Avoid engine loads and brutal accelerations;
  • Work the gearbox, shifting is very important, also need to break-in;
  • Avoid riding with a passenger;
From 0-100 km (0-60 miles)
  • Revs up to 5000RPMs
  • Throttle up to 25%
From 100-500 km (60-300 miles)
  • Revs up to 6500RPMs
  • Throttle up to 25%
From 500-1000 km (300-600 miles)
  • Revs up to 6500RPMs
  • Ocasional Revs up to 8000RPMs
  • Throttle up to 50%
  • Go to maintenance service.
 

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Hi Guys,
I'm writing this thread hoping to help new KTM790 owners even myself. Your comments will be very appreciated :)

I followed the manufacture recommendations, added-on my own experience and readings on how to break-in the engine.

Manufacturer break-in procedure:
  • Revs up to 6500RPMs
  • Do not full throttle
  • Avoid highways
  • Procedure duration: 1000 km (600 miles)
My break-in procedure:
General recommendations
  • Warm up the engine before riding - 2/3 minutes just the time to dress up;
  • No rush in breaking-in, full cooldown cycles are very important;
  • RPMs variation most as possible (up and down engine pressure are important for a proper seal);
  • Avoid highways (constant speeds/RPMs);
  • Avoid engine loads and brutal accelerations;
  • Work the gearbox, shifting is very important, also need to break-in;
  • Avoid riding with a passenger;
From 0-100 km (0-60 miles)
  • Revs up to 5000RPMs
  • Throttle up to 25%
From 100-500 km (60-300 miles)
  • Revs up to 6500RPMs
  • Throttle up to 25%
From 500-1000 km (300-600 miles)
  • Revs up to 6500RPMs
  • Ocasional Revs up to 8000RPMs
  • Throttle up to 50%
  • Go to maintenance service.
that's super careful running in...
I thought I was careful but nothing like your procedure
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do get confused why anyone ever thinks they know better than the guys who design engines for their whole life....
I do not think that I know better than who design engines. In a matter of fact is completely the opposite.

The running-in procedure is in compliance with factory recommendations. The only difference is the details. The manufacturer does not describe a detailed running-in procedure, just provide general recommendations.

There are people, I'm included, that like to know more, study and investigate a little further.
That doesn't make a person arrogant, just curious :wink:
 

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I do not think that I know better than who design engines. In a matter of fact is completely the opposite.

The running-in procedure is in compliance with factory recommendations. The only difference is the details. The manufacturer does not describe a detailed running-in procedure, just provide general recommendations.

There are people, I'm included, that like to know more, study and investigate a little further.
That doesn't make a person arrogant, just curious :wink:
But how do you conclude that what you did is right or wrong ? You can't exactly see the bores/pistons, you don't send off the oil for spectral analysis.... so how do you know if yours is better or worse than someone who did it a different way ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
But how do you conclude that what you did is right or wrong ? You can't exactly see the bores/pistons, you don't send off the oil for spectral analysis.... so how do you know if yours is better or worse than someone who did it a different way ?
I understand.

As I said, I'm following the recommendations of the instruction manual. The procedure posted is my interpretation of it. Doesn't mean that is better or worse than others. I never argue that my interpretation is the best or the "Holy Grail of Running-in" :smile_big:.

The reason I posted is to share different interpretations/opinions to help others. You may have a different interpretation and if you do please share. It will be appreciated :wink:
 

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The manual says the following

9.2 Running in the engine
– During the running-in phase, do not exceed the specified engine speed.

Guideline

Maximum engine speed
During the first: 1,000 km (620 mi)
6,500 rpm
After the first: 1,000 km (620 mi)
9,800 rpm

– Avoid fully opening the throttle!
 

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I understand.

As I said, I'm following the recommendations of the instruction manual. The procedure posted is my interpretation of it. Doesn't mean that is better or worse than others. I never argue that my interpretation is the best or the "Holy Grail of Running-in" :smile_big:.

The reason I posted is to share different interpretations/opinions to help others. You may have a different interpretation and if you do please share. It will be appreciated :wink:
I don't have much of an opinion, i've only owned 1 brand new bike and ran that in as per the manufacturers instructions, my thoughts were that the bloke at KTM knew his stuff, so i went with that.

It amuses me when we get the 'break in hard' video you see about the internet, which is some random fella in a shop saying "this is how it's done..." but backs it up with nothing.

If you watch TV Progs you'll see that all bikes are Dyno run before leaving the factory and red-lined anyway.... So i don't know if they take care of the valve seating etc by default in that part of the process.
 

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The manual says the following

9.2 Running in the engine
– During the running-in phase, do not exceed the specified engine speed.

Guideline

Maximum engine speed
During the first: 1,000 km (620 mi)
6,500 rpm
After the first: 1,000 km (620 mi)
9,800 rpm

– Avoid fully opening the throttle!
I followed this when i ran mine in
no oil leaks
no smoke
JUST FUN
 

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I've bought mine ex demo, it has 800 odd k's on it.
I can guarantee there was no running in on that one, hopefully warranty will catch anything.

"Would you like to take our demo for a spin"
"yes please"
"ok, but you gotta keep it under 6500"
"oh sure, no problem"
:wheelies into sunset while rev limiter bonks:
 

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I've bought mine ex demo, it has 800 odd k's on it.
I can guarantee there was no running in on that one, hopefully warranty will catch anything.

"Would you like to take our demo for a spin"
"yes please"
"ok, but you gotta keep it under 6500"
"oh sure, no problem"
:wheelies into sunset while rev limiter bonks:

hahahaha

Personally, I follow (or at least try to) what the manufacturer says as they are the one's who built it.
Couldn't agree more, Owl. :smile:
 

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Run them hard from the start. Sport bike engines are designed to rev freely. Had a new GSXR 1000 and was even told that from the dealer. Same with my Duke. Never had an issue and if you have issue when new, its under warranty but haven't had any and bike runs great...
 
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Definitely matters less on newer bikes, with modern machining and castings the clearance levels are so precise there's minimal chance of defects.

Saying that though, it's only 600 miles, covered that in less than a week :devil:

Personally, I follow (or at least try to) what the manufacturer says as they are the one's who built it.
 

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Sport bike engines are designed to rev freely.
(after they are run-in)


Its funny that with tires everybody follows the manufacturers words on run-in.
I guess its because if they dont, they end up dead in a ditch somewhere after going full lean on a brand new tire.

If you break your engine its just a warranty claim, so the ideas of hard run-in lives on.
 
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