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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For my riding position the brake lever sits too high and forces my wrist into a very uncomfortable bend.
Used to my older motorbikes i thought it as a simple matter of rotating it forward/downward some 10/15 degrees after releasing the two bolts of the collar, but I found this is not the case.
The collar has a pin that fits into a slot in the throttle block hence it can't rotate even after the bolts are completely removed.

The dealer's mechanic hinted the idea of making the slot larger, but it doesn't feel right.
At least while it's still under warranty.

Anyone went through such a change?

TIA

BTW: 2k km later I need to bleed the brakes again. Not what I would expect from a brand new motorbike because I didn't had to do it on my 22 years old TRX.
My CBR instead had the calipers seals completely gone and was getting a good bleed on a weekly basis until I replaced them.
 

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For my riding position the brake lever sits too high and forces my wrist into a very uncomfortable bend.
Used to my older motorbikes i thought it as a simple matter of rotating it forward/downward some 10/15 degrees after releasing the two bolts of the collar, but I found this is not the case.
The collar has a pin that fits into a slot in the throttle block hence it can't rotate even after the bolts are completely removed.

The dealer's mechanic hinted the idea of making the slot larger, but it doesn't feel right.
At least while it's still under warranty.

Anyone went through such a change?

TIA

BTW: 2k km later I need to bleed the brakes again. Not what I would expect from a brand new motorbike because I didn't had to do it on my 22 years old TRX.
My CBR instead had the calipers seals completely gone and was getting a good bleed on a weekly basis until I replaced them.
Mine feel a bit higher then I would like, but not to the extent of needing to move the lever down. Good info on what you found. Evan has a great idea though. Sounds like short of replacing the entire throttle assembly, rotating the bars may be the only way to go. Haven't needed to bleed the brakes at all, but I just had my first service so haven't been eyeballing it either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What about rotating the handlebar forward to get the right wrist angle?
I have the risers moved to the front holes and when accelerating hard I already end up with my head sitting on the vertical of the dashboard (a major change from my older bikes and much like what it felt when I tried a 954 a couple of years ago).

I will give a try, see how the overall feeling gets and report back.
 

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2020 790 Duke, 2006 SV 650, 2008 Hot rodded KLR, 1991 Honda Hawk NT 650
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For my riding position the brake lever sits too high and forces my wrist into a very uncomfortable bend.
Used to my older motorbikes i thought it as a simple matter of rotating it forward/downward some 10/15 degrees after releasing the two bolts of the collar, but I found this is not the case.
The collar has a pin that fits into a slot in the throttle block hence it can't rotate even after the bolts are completely removed.

The dealer's mechanic hinted the idea of making the slot larger, but it doesn't feel right.
At least while it's still under warranty.

Anyone went through such a change?

TIA

BTW: 2k km later I need to bleed the brakes again. Not what I would expect from a brand new motorbike because I didn't had to do it on my 22 years old TRX.
My CBR instead had the calipers seals completely gone and was getting a good bleed on a weekly basis until I replaced them.
Rotate the throttle assembly too? I had no problem adjusting mine. The only limiting factor for me was the brake line itself.
 

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2020 790 Duke, 2006 SV 650, 2008 Hot rodded KLR, 1991 Honda Hawk NT 650
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Mine feel a bit higher then I would like, but not to the extent of needing to move the lever down.
Gee .... first thing I do is set everything adjustable just the way I want. I even moved the bars to the forward position and altered the rotation so that it was just so. Why wouldn't you move the lever down?
 

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A few ideas:
Enlarge the slot
Grind the pin
Rotate the handlebar
Replace the handlebar
Replace the M/C

or...

Get used to it
 

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For my riding position the brake lever sits too high and forces my wrist into a very uncomfortable bend.
Used to my older motorbikes i thought it as a simple matter of rotating it forward/downward some 10/15 degrees after releasing the two bolts of the collar, but I found this is not the case.
The collar has a pin that fits into a slot in the throttle block hence it can't rotate even after the bolts are completely removed.

The dealer's mechanic hinted the idea of making the slot larger, but it doesn't feel right.
At least while it's still under warranty.

Anyone went through such a change?

TIA

BTW: 2k km later I need to bleed the brakes again. Not what I would expect from a brand new motorbike because I didn't had to do it on my 22 years old TRX.
My CBR instead had the calipers seals completely gone and was getting a good bleed on a weekly basis until I replaced them.
So I just did this adjustment a couple days ago on my 2019. I tipped my brake lever down a touch and it is much improved.
First loosen the allen bolts holding the mirror/brake assembly. Next loosen the torx bolt hidden underneath the ignition/kill switch casing. Rotate both assemblies together and retighten. Simple.
Hope this helps!
 

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So I just did this adjustment a couple days ago on my 2019. I tipped my brake lever down a touch and it is much improved.
First loosen the allen bolts holding the mirror/brake assembly. Next loosen the torx bolt hidden underneath the ignition/kill switch casing. Rotate both assemblies together and retighten. Simple.
Hope this helps!
I did the same on both sides (clutch and brake) ... no need for any drilling.
 
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