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2018 KTM 790 Duke, 2020 KTM 890 Duke R, 2020 Kawasaki KLX230
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I just did the booster plug on my '18 790 - heaps smoother even made quick shifter less clucky.

FYI I run K&N Filter & Leo Vince SV10 twin (no db) pipes with Cat and that was rougher than stock prior to booster plug.
 

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I had one on my '19 and decided to go with a PC5 from Rotty. I believe it made a difference, just not enough for the mods I had made.
I was thinking I should put it up for sale. It's almost new. PM me if you decide to go that way and are interested.
 

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I just installed the booster plug on my 2020 - I am very pleased with the improvement in fueling just off idle and opening a fully closed throttle. 5 minute install. Very pleased with the customer service (I asked a few questions ahead of time) and shipping speed from the manufacturer.
 

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790 Duke 2020
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My bike is stock everything. It is a great value-for-money fun bike. But the slow-running, bimbling-through-towns fuelling can be inconsistent and jerky, as we all know. Granted it is tolerable, especially if we keep the revs up.
I cannot justify a Coober/dyno solution for my riding needs. So Booster Plug and Rapid Bike Easy seemed to be possible ways forward for me.

I suspected that Rapid Bike Easy would give the better fix but have been disappointed by their lack of data or meaningful graphs, despite having exchanged emails with them and receiving some more info. I also suspect that the Bosch ECU could adapt a work-around to the Rapid Bike Easy modification in time but I am no expert in this field.

My original assumption concerning the Booster Plug was that it would simply make a 6% enrichment across the entire rev range. I incorrectly thought that, whilst this enrichment would help under 6k and varying throttles, it might reduce peak power due to over-enrichment at higher revs. I was wrong.

After reading more carefully through the Booster Plug website I now realise that this simple little device provides an elegant solution for those of us who only want to refine the engine response at low revs and during throttle changes. When cruising, the fuelling will revert to lambda control and original factory mapping.


The website instils confidence with lots of FAQ's and testimonials.

So I fitted a Booster Plug yesterday. Outside air temperature was 8 deg C. The engine fired and ran smoothly, without wavering, racing or hunting - it just idled steadily and sounded safe and solid, with a slightly deeper exhaust note. The improvement in smoothness was apparent within the first quarter mile. Throttle response is now more progressive and stable. It is no longer essential to keep feathering the clutch and throttle whilst slow riding, since the engine feels stronger and happier. Other have reported this same phenomenon and it has been my experience too. Strong smooth torque is snatch-free from low revs. Hey, its not perfect but its way better than stock and totally acceptable for a twin that will rev to 10k. I have only done 60 miles of very mixed country lane riding so far but can happily confirm that the fuel consumption is unchanged. I suspect it might be even better than before but I'll monitor that and report back in due course.

I am pleasantly surprised and better informed, thanks in no small part to related posts on this forum. If you fancy an easy-to-fit inexpensive fix to smoothen the slow running, this is it.
 

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I have also fitted a Booster Plug and K&N and then 2 weeks later i fitted a LeoVince lv10 twin can system and there is deffo an improvement over stock, not a huge day and night difference but from cold it now stinks of fuel from the exhaust and ticks over smoother stock it used to rev up and down 2-300rpm when cold started thats gone with the BP fitted, i have always riden with it in track mode throttle response was street as it used to jerk about to much in sport or track throttle response ! now with the BP i now have it in track throttle response which is still a bit iffy at low revs but nowhere near as bad as stock, my opinion it was worth the £130 Saying that im getting the bike dyno'd and remapped and the BP will be coming off.
 

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I had my old MT07 remapped and dyno’d by Seton Racing and the improvement was stunning.
I can’t afford or justify it for the Duke, so BP is a decent compromise. Deffo remove it prior to your dyno and remap. Maybe you could post the graphs in due course. 🧐👍
 

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My bike is stock everything. It is a great value-for-money fun bike. But the slow-running, bimbling-through-towns fuelling can be inconsistent and jerky, as we all know. Granted it is tolerable, especially if we keep the revs up.
I cannot justify a Coober/dyno solution for my riding needs. So Booster Plug and Rapid Bike Easy seemed to be possible ways forward for me.

I suspected that Rapid Bike Easy would give the better fix but have been disappointed by their lack of data or meaningful graphs, despite having exchanged emails with them and receiving some more info. I also suspect that the Bosch ECU could adapt a work-around to the Rapid Bike Easy modification in time but I am no expert in this field.

My original assumption concerning the Booster Plug was that it would simply make a 6% enrichment across the entire rev range. I incorrectly thought that, whilst this enrichment would help under 6k and varying throttles, it might reduce peak power due to over-enrichment at higher revs. I was wrong.

After reading more carefully through the Booster Plug website I now realise that this simple little device provides an elegant solution for those of us who only want to refine the engine response at low revs and during throttle changes. When cruising, the fuelling will revert to lambda control and original factory mapping.


The website instils confidence with lots of FAQ's and testimonials.

So I fitted a Booster Plug yesterday. Outside air temperature was 8 deg C. The engine fired and ran smoothly, without wavering, racing or hunting - it just idled steadily and sounded safe and solid, with a slightly deeper exhaust note. The improvement in smoothness was apparent within the first quarter mile. Throttle response is now more progressive and stable. It is no longer essential to keep feathering the clutch and throttle whilst slow riding, since the engine feels stronger and happier. Other have reported this same phenomenon and it has been my experience too. Strong smooth torque is snatch-free from low revs. Hey, its not perfect but its way better than stock and totally acceptable for a twin that will rev to 10k. I have only done 60 miles of very mixed country lane riding so far but can happily confirm that the fuel consumption is unchanged. I suspect it might be even better than before but I'll monitor that and report back in due course.

I am pleasantly surprised and better informed, thanks in no small part to related posts on this forum. If you fancy an easy-to-fit inexpensive fix to smoothen the slow running, this is it
To smooth things out simply go to rain mode in town -,switch back to street or sport when you’re free of traffic. Works nicely
 

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LOL RAIN Mode !!! can i ask what is the point of buying a 790 to stick it in RAIN Mode or any other bike for that matter ! jeez whats the point of a 107 give or take Bhp to turn it down to 50 odd by putting it in Rain mode !!! sorry but if a rider is not capable of riding a 100+ Bhp bike go buy a 123/250 or whatever you can ride that is within your skill set ! This 790 is the 1st bike i have ever had that has all this rider aid crap on it ! i played around with the various settings but was far from impressed with it all so it now stays in Track mode with everything turned OFF that i can turn off ,
I know a lot of riders love all this electronic guff stuff sorry i am not 1 of them.
 

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LOL RAIN Mode !!! can i ask what is the point of buying a 790 to stick it in RAIN Mode or any other bike for that matter
Wait until you hit a Spanish diesel slick in the first sprinkle of rain following 6 months of no rain. I have seen trucks slide off motorways. Personally I use Street mode in the rain here. I have used RAIN mode once or twice - usually on Mud Slides. The 790 is the first bike I have had with any rider aids (including ABS).
 

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There is a youtube video from a german tuner who tested it on the dyno and shows the results, it proves that it actually works in the lower regions (and that's where the "problem" is) in the higher regions the AF ratio becomes a bit to high.
if you are familiar with the term "AF ratio" you can watch the video, it will make sense to you

 

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Yup good videos from that guy. Speaking German helps.
IIRC he did a COOBER vid too a while back.
 

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Yup good videos from that guy. Speaking German helps.
IIRC he did a COOBER vid too a while back.
Im from Holland and live close to the German border so speaking German is not an issue for me (y)
I watched al the vids they made for the KTM's, very interesting info!
 
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There is a youtube video from a german tuner who tested it on the dyno and shows the results, it proves that it actually works in the lower regions (and that's where the "problem" is) in the higher regions the AF ratio becomes a bit to high.
if you are familiar with the term "AF ratio" you can watch the video, it will make sense to you

I managed to follow the graphs, despite not understanding the language. The Booster Plug clearly improves both power and torque right up to 9k+. The rev range up to 6k (ish) shows very useful improvements in power and torque, just where we need it.

It is interesting to see that whilst the A/F ratio seems to be sub-optimal above 6k (its slightly too rich), it still does not reduce the power or torque. In other words the engine is just as happy to be running a bit richer than optimal. So this richness would not be noticed due to a power drop, because there isn't a power drop.

One advantage of the extra richness is that the top-end of the engine will run a bit cooler, with less likelihood of melting valves or distorting something. Hence the engine might last a bit longer.

From my own experience with the Booster Plug I confirm that, in real world use on public roads, the engine is more tractable, less prone to bogging and faltering, and more stable and confidence inspiring.
 
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There are several ways that on DYNO seem to resolve the mid-range performance.

There is a FREE one but it is known to affect the top end (about 5kmh).

It modifies some very clever Helmholz effects inside the filter box that basically induce a semi RAM effect at higher rpms. But that also knobbles midrange a bit.

You pull the two rubber funnels out of the sides - from the inside.

6179


Parts 6 and 8. - I am a wimp and do not have the strength to get the buggers out.
But there is a guy in Austria who did so and Dyno'd before/after.
NOT A HUGE jump, Sort of like the Booster Plug gains (10% ish IIRC). But free.
I can just about understand WHY. And honestly I wish I could pull the buggers out.

ime the filtered aerated top filter access plates offered by various mfrs make more noise - but have no real effect.

Make no bones - dropping 1 tooth on the front sprocket makes a HUGE difference to road riding. You are revved through the chuggy areas of the rpm range before you can feel them (so they say)

I have been running almost since day one with a COOBER so I can't honestly remember what it was like without.
 

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speaking German is not an issue for me (y)
I used German as my daily language for 6 years.

Been a while but I can still think in German and I used to live about 10 miles from where that Guy is based - so even the accent is easy.
What a bugger - If I was still there seems I have access to a GOOD DYNO GUY!. Now 1000miles away. Bit more of a ride.
 

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Did the coober get rid of the low RPM jerkiness completely?
Mate. I never really noticed it before being honest. Altitude does affect fueling more than most think. I am at almost 800metres.
I bought my 790 used and run in - and fitted the COOBER pretty much from day one. Maybe a month or two without. But I was still "understanding" the beast. That "shiiiiiiit! this moves" time in ownership. What did ABSOLUTELY improve was the quickshifter - night and day.

The COOBER (subjectively) seems to detect things like TPS vs RPM changes way faster. Here I am speaking from experience of other systems: but - the granularity of the system matters.
For example : the R3 Keihin ECU operates at approx 330rpm cell size. A PCV at 500 or 250. Setting at 250 made a difference. The COOBER reputedly cell shifts at 100rpm, which is stunning if so. The 790 Bosch is I think, set in the 250-350rpm area - but I have no data to support this - It's a gut thing. All based on how it reacts to minute TPS changes at 10-40%TPS on motorway.

The damn COVID thing here makes any proper testing a real PITA.
 

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Ive only just discovered this magical booster plug. It sounds like it would fix one of my biggest bug bares with this bike (the slow control riding). Couple questions before I take the plunge.
I've read somewhere these would work better with an aftermarket air filter? Is this true? Also, would it be best to remove the booster before taking it in for its next service/update? Or will it not matter.

I was thinking about removing the cat and making the slip on a full system but this would require a proper remap to run well and to be honest Im not sure how this would effect future software updates/servicing/warranty etc!

Any extra info help would be appreciated. Cheers guys
 
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