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Any recommendations on what battery I should pick up? Mine is dead and would like an upgrade, but don't have a Lion charger, so didn't want to mess with that. You guys tend to use anything in particular?
 

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In general you simply cannot beat YUASA. I am big fan of LiFePO4 - but they have some issues if it is cool outside - and the usually "warm up" tricks are going to be an issue with a 790.
 

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Yuasa is a very good AGM replacement and should last longer then many other’s unless you are welling to put extra $$ and go with gel or lithium(with cold weather issues like other says)
 

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Yuasa batteries have always served me well too. Had a WPS lithium battery in my Stand up jet ski (salt water surf only) for 5 years, never once charged it and it was still working when I sold the ski. Was always impressed by that battery.
 

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Yuasa batteries have always served me well too. Had a WPS lithium battery in my Stand up jet ski (salt water surf only) for 5 years, never once charged it and it was still working when I sold the ski. Was always impressed by that battery.
Lithium batteries are really great, they have a higher voltage(doesn’t drop much under load to), more cranking amps and way more lighter witch is good for any sport bike. You just have to be careful if ever need to charge it. If I wouldn’t be in a cold weather country it’ll be the replacement when ever the OEM is gone.
 

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In general you simply cannot beat YUASA. I am big fan of LiFePO4 - but they have some issues if it is cool outside - and the usually "warm up" tricks are going to be an issue with a 790.
Looking at a lithium replacement myself, I ride through winter so it’s probably not the best idea, but seldom out below freezing and would like to give it a go.

I have a tracker which causes a constant trickle drain, although I’m not convinced it will draw enough to keep the battery warmed.

I do however have heated grips installed and was thinking this might put enough load on the battery to warm it up enough to crank. Thoughts?

I‘ll admit I haven’t had a chance to test if the grips turn on if the bikes not running, but pretty sure they will.

New forum update looking swanky!
 

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@owl I have a Lithium battery in another bike and really rate it - it's so much lighter than traditional batteries.

I left it for 3 months over winter with no trickle charge and the battery had dropped hardly any charge - I put it on a smart charger and it was full in about 30 minutes so that shows they have very little internal losses in storage.

A tracker would definitely drain it over time though as they tend to have a lower absolute capacity than similarly (cranking) rated lead batteries - so you would need a trickle charge if you were leaving the bike for a few weeks I think.

In really cold weather (sub zero ºC) you may need a good draw to warm the battery - cranking the bike a couple of times works, just for a few seconds each time then pause to let the heat soak into the battery. Each subsequent crank gets stronger than the last as the battery warms itself up - it's kind of magic, but really just chemistry.

I'm not sure if the drain from heated grips would be enough - I wired mine into the 'ignition switched' accessory connector and tested them when the bike was not running (just ignition on) - they heat up fine.
 

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Thanks @dma will be an interesting test.

Usually ride daily into office, but have relocated from UK to Ireland for 12 months due to my SO being seconded by her company.

We moved just before the lockdown and the bike was on the moving truck with all our stuff which got caught up in the restrictions and ended up taking 3 additional weeks to turn up at the new place 😬

Needless to say the battery was shot by the time it arrived, as it had already been on the truck before the delay. Jumped it a few times but doesn’t seem to be holding charge properly hence looking replacement.

Any recommendations? The Shido’s seem to have been discontinued. Been looking at Exide, Motobatt and quite like the look of ReLion (although not the price).

edit: sorry to jack your thread @Chic, if I was looking for acid again I’d also get a Yuasa like mentioned above.
 

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Any recommendations? The Shido’s seem to have been discontinued. Been looking at Exide, Motobatt and quite like the look of ReLion (although not the price).
I have used Motobatt AGM often. I will investigate their LI.
If you want a GOOD and I do mean very good LiFePO4 battery - the best I know of are I-tecc in Germany. They use A123 cells and this gives them a VERY high discharge rate. I have used A123 in the past to make my own 1120CCA monsters. Expensive? - Yes!.
 

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If you want a GOOD and I do mean very good LiFePO4 battery - the best I know of are I-tecc in Germany. They use A123 cells and this gives them a VERY high discharge rate. I have used A123 in the past to make my own 1120CCA monsters. Expensive? - Yes!.
Do you have a link to a compatible one that you can actually buy online?

are these them?


I saw you mention it in the other battery thread but I couldn’t find much else especially for delivery to Ireland.

Seems to be some on the usual Chinese sites, but they‘re suspiciously cheap and obviously fake.

Others seem only interested in bulk commercial sales.
 

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Basic ones - Some have a BMS (absolutely a must with electronics) built in. LiFeEnergy Power Basic
Pro ones LiFeEnergy Power Pro - all have BMS plus basic charge protection.
Super ones LiFeEnergy Power Pro-S these have BMS but also specialised under and overcharge protection.

I will have a browse about - A 5aH will probably be enough for the 790 that's used frequently. Though I'd err on the side of caution and go for 7.5-8aH.

There is also another marque - Also German - but I can't find them at the moment.

Here is a non BMS battery I made ages ago - using A123 8aH cells (sadly no longer made)

4173


For effect I fitted it into a standard 20aH battery case like fitted to Harleys etc

12V 16ah LiFePO4 - 1120 CCA - It melted a Seized Bosch Starter motor. You could weld with it.

This is a 8aH I still have during the build stage - on paper 560CCA - BUT no BMS etc so no use with modern ECU's

4174
 

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Does anyone know how important the side the terminals are on? My bike has the negative on the left from memory and the batteries I seem to see recommend for the 790 Duke have the positive on the left. Are the cables long enough that this is not an issue? This is the battery I'm thinking of YTX9-BS Lithium Motorcycle Battery - Save 2.3kg over stock!
The Terminal orientation I would say IS IMPORTANT on a 790/890D - The cables are short.

My mate uses JMT batteries in his Guzzi shop - (He gets them through Larsson): but he's looking for an alternative. imo they are a wee bit borderline. And 3aH will not last long if you have anything like an alarm. That battery you link to is a bit small imo. I would want 5aH at least. Unless you are really convinced that saving 2Kgs will make a huge difference - Get a good lead acid and invest in a pocket sized booster.
 

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I am interested to know if anybody has tried the NOCO LiFePO4 batteries. I am impressed by their chargers and also their booster packs. What's more - (yes I know, I know) they look a damn sight better (prettier) than most.
 

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Thanks I thought it seems a bit small as well but got it from this chart KTM Replacement Battery Chart

It sounds like jml shido and yuasa are the safest choices but the terminals seem to be the wrong way round. The nocos have caught my eye. They look good and are always at the top on Amazon and Google searches. For me bigger is better as long the dimensions stay the same. The bike has heated grips and a honey pot tracker that's connected to the battery. I recently got the bike and changed the lockset and immobilizer that's all pre mapped. It starts but shows the immobilizer failure while still running. I read this is a battery issue if it's not overheating which makes sense as I have to keep jump starting it.

Are there any batteries that are good for voltage regulation , or any additional capacitors that can smooth the voltage that can sit between the battery and the positive cable? It seems like these bikes are very sensitive to changes in current
 

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IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING that draws constant power fitted - Stay away from Lithium (imo) - UNLESS you ride daily.

Imagine the tracker device draws 0.1Amp - That's 30 hours from a 3aH battery. OK, 0.1A is maybe a bit high - but it's only 1.2Watts.

The larger the battery - the more stable it should be.

NOCO pays for top slot in search engines.

Also - Look at MotoBatt 4-post batteries - Not the Lithium ones!!. Properly ambidextrous. Also makes fitting accessories a breeze.

btw - have a read of this post - Immobiliser fault just so I don't have to write it again.
 

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I am interested to know if anybody has tried the NOCO LiFePO4 batteries. I am impressed by their chargers and also their booster packs. What's more - (yes I know, I know) they look a damn sight better (prettier) than most.
...And $100 for a Duke compatible battery looks very competitive.
 

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Thanks that arrival is interesting. I think I'm better of removing anything that drains the battery when parked. The immobilizer was just a dummy one I have a battery powered monimoto hidden somewhere else on the bike

I looked int hybrids Motobatt MH14B4 Hybrid Lithium Battery

Sounds great but has bad reviews In Australia and only 12 month warranty

For me with lockdowns I don't get out much so a big lithium that can be left for more than 1 month makes sense I might buy an external small battery for the honeypot immobilizer that doesn't drain the main battery or just forget it
 
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