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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Fitted some bar risers today, makes quite a difference (for me), I'm 6'1" and find my neck tilts back at an uncomfortable angle for me with the standard bars.


Just a word of caution if anyone decides to do it, 20mm is the MAX the bars can be raised and that is only because I tilt the brake and clutch slightly lower than the standard position. The other thing to note is bolt hole spacing is 39 mm although most brands slot the holes to accommodate most bikes.


The reason that 20mm is the most the bars can be raised is because of the brake line.


To see how to dismantle the headlight assembly download the KTM heated grips installation. Also if you ever decide to remove the headight the top mounting screw doubles as the headlight adjustment so mark a point on the wall where the centre of the high beam is.
 

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I was going to ask about bar risers.

Was wondering if you or anyone has the 20mm higher ergo seat, and whether that changed the riding position to warrant the need for bar risers.

I am still waiting on my ergo seat, and was already thinking about bar risers, so thanks for the tip on installation.
 

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Great information.

I have the Ergo 20mm higher seat ordered (Im 6'3") but already decided i need a bar riser

Im used to fitting custom made brake lines to my bikes.

Would you say the rest of the cables and wires could stretch beyond 20mm?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, I opened the cable box at the rear of the headlight again because one of the cables didn't have enough slack for my liking and I paid particular attention to how much slack there is for 30 mm bar risers.


All the electrical harnesses have enough spare for 30mm risers, you may have to cut the cables ties to untangle the cables but there is room.


The clutch cable is a bit ???, but if you look at the clutch housing end of the cable there is enough spare room, the problem is the clutch cable has cable ties along its length so you will have to take covers off and follow the clutch cable along its length back to the clutch housing.


Finally the brake cable, in its current form there isn't enough spare cable for a 30mm riser, you could possibly cut the cable ties that hold the brake line in the channel at the rear of the headlight or maybe you can lift the tank and gain some spare length by rerouting the brake line but that is an unknown because I haven't seen under the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,
Thx for this info! this is very helpful.
Im 1,90cm (6.2).
Was thinking of getting 20mm bar raisers and a wider-bar. Current stock bar is 760mm, was wondering if it would be possible to fit a 806mm bar with current cable length.

Well I've moved the front brake assembly inboard by about 15 mm and tilted it down slightly from the standard position which gives some extra brake hose play (mainly because the brake lever is an odd shape).


Anyway I doubt very much that you will have enough spare brake hose for wider bars.


Maybe if you lift the tank and see where the brake hose goes you may be able to reroute it and get some extra play
 

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Well I've moved the front brake assembly inboard by about 15 mm and tilted it down slightly from the standard position which gives some extra brake hose play (mainly because the brake lever is an odd shape).


Anyway I doubt very much that you will have enough spare brake hose for wider bars.


Maybe if you lift the tank and see where the brake hose goes you may be able to reroute it and get some extra play
Thx!
I will be installing heating grips on monday, so i will need to go under the tank anyways. Will see if i get more cable-play and install wider bar.
Will keep you updated.
 

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I fitted heated grip, the connection is behind headlight so no need to touch fuel tank
its an easy job, remove headlight 3 screws, the remove plastic cover behind headlight 6 screws.
identify wires, two sets of wires are available always on and on with ignition I choose on with ignition, I also wired up the USB charging socket at the same time again the ignition on circuit

The hardest part was getting all the wiring in, not much room to play with

I did make up 2 x 2 into 1 adapters rather than cut connections off
 

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I have fitted 3 pairs of oxford grips
they are supplied with inline fuse for fitting to battery directly

However KTM have a DC supply that is already fused at 10A so rather than run back to battery directly you can connect your oxford grips to this existing supply if I remember correctly oxford grip require 6A supply

I purchase KTM heated grips expecting a better kit and fitted these however I would not pay extra for these I would go oxford way unless your ultra fussy and want to keep original style grips
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Has anyone fitted the Oxford grips to the 790 yet ?


How did you get on with the throttle tube, you would need to cut the old KTM throttle rubber grip off and reuse the KTM throttle tube.


Did the shape of the Oxford grip fit the KTM throttle tube ?
 

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Interesting,
The dealer told me they do not connect like Superduke or Adventure, they connect all the way to the battery. Also do you have an extra switch now on your bars? How are the grips? Same or thicker and grippier? Can you post a picture?

Thx :)
Hi AMatu
sorry for late reply yes i have an extra control on my handle bar, not the best looking unit but then neither is the oxford control .
The grips look identical to the originals this kit was very easy to fit the slowest part was getting to the wiring in the headlight back
will post picture if still required please advise
 

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I have just got a set of 20mm bar risers ready for fitting with other ‘bits’ to my new bike next week, I was considering the 30mm initially but opted for the 20mm after reading this thread.
I don’t bother with heated grips but use heated gloves. Much better, as the whole hand is heated and I can use them one more than one motorcycle.
Next add on bit I am considering are mfw vario footpegs as I find the footrest a tat to high. (Vario and Replacement Footpegs)
I have a bad knees the left in particular from an existing long standing injury, and I have to modify a bit some bikes for comfort. I prefer the taller bikes, my KTM SMT and 690 which are going, but are both a bit taller.
 

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I have just got a set of 20mm bar risers ready for fitting with other ‘bits’ to my new bike next week, I was considering the 30mm initially but opted for the 20mm after reading this thread.
I don’t bother with heated grips but use heated gloves. Much better, as the whole hand is heated and I can use them one more than one motorcycle.
Next add on bit I am considering are mfw vario footpegs as I find the footrest a tat to high. (Vario and Replacement Footpegs)
I have a bad knees the left in particular from an existing long standing injury, and I have to modify a bit some bikes for comfort. I prefer the taller bikes, my KTM SMT and 690 which are going, but are both a bit taller.
just watch the ground clearance if your going to lower the pegs
I would suggest 20mmm higher seat option it helps my knees and ars...
 

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Tho I would say that the 20mm higher seat only really gives you 10mm because its softer and you sink into it more.

I also usually fit lower pegs the problem i usually run into is getting the foot levers low enough to match the pegs.

Im pretty sure i have a set of the Varios in the workshop somewhere, ill check and see if they fit.
 
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