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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hmmm I never knew that either.

Went for a lovely morning ride, no problems whatsoever. Fingers are still crossed, but very happy for now.


As for the dealer, well I'm not so enamoured. After all the fast talk and (as I found out later) a couple of porkies during this whole saga, I'm finding myself more than willing to travel further to another dealer in future.
Having spent 28+K in the last two years, between purchasing 2 new bikes, and getting our old ones out of storage and on the road again, I think it's a bit of a shabby after-sales service experience, to be honest.
 

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2020 KTM Duke, '72 Norton Commando, '62 BSA C-15, '82 Suzuki PE 175
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Yes, will do. It's frustrating that the guy couldn't tell me whether a reset was done, too. Apparently they leave all the geeky stuff to the apprentice which seems a bit lax, given they sell all this tech.
So, it's been a few days, how is it!? I hope everything is running well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
This is the longest Ugga's gone without cutting out. I'm even downshifting unnecessarily to see what happens LOL.
I'll give it another week before I'll say the problem is solved, but at the risk of putting the mokka on myself, it's all feeling pretty good.
 

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This is the longest Ugga's gone without cutting out. I'm even downshifting unnecessarily to see what happens LOL.
I'll give it another week before I'll say the problem is solved, but at the risk of putting the mokka on myself, it's all feeling pretty good.
That’s good to hear. Pity that the detailed reasons for the fault seem to have been shrouded by smoke and mirrors somewhat. Thankfully your trust and confidence in the bike will now steadily increase, enabling you to enjoy this fantastic machine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Yep. I'm disappointed in that side of things, too. But I'm glad someone at KTM was willing to offer clues in relation to getting something actually done. I'm grateful for that, at least.
So if it means there's another thing to look at for similar problems someone else might be having, it's been worth it.
Most fantastic machines have their teething problems I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Well ****.
A couple of weeks of perfect bike, he cut out twice this week. This morning he revved hard on first startup, and again for the home commute.
Emailed the dealer this morning but heard nothing back at all, unsurprisingly. Will have to follow up on Monday.
 

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Essie I am curious about this "cut out" you have been describing.

Does the engine just miss a beat or quit running for just a second then continues on running normally?

Or does it shut off completely causing the bike to slow down, like when you close the throttle, before it decides to begin running again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
HJ the engine shuts down completely. Despite the gear lever being clear of my boot (suggestions of the sensor thinking it's still on it having been noted and dealt with), the clutch still in, and a positive blip of the throttle before releasing. It's the blip point where I think it all goes wrong. Like the machine isn't hearing that clear command and puts its hands over its ears and shouts "LA LA LA". There's nothing at all to suggest labouring or lack of revs.

So still rolling with the clutch in, in order to restart and regain power.

Sometimes, more recently a 'near miss' of same happens when I can feel a loss of power at the same point (the simultaneous actions of the shift into 1st ), accompanied by a teeny tiny backfire pop on the blip. This near miss bizzo is a new thing, since the last'fix', which makes me think there's a 'hearing' problem with the fuel delivery at that juncture, despite new injectors and plugs seemingly doing the jobbie last time.
 

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HJ the engine shuts down completely. Despite the gear lever being clear of my boot (suggestions of the sensor thinking it's still on it having been noted and dealt with), the clutch still in, and a positive blip of the throttle before releasing. It's the blip point where I think it all goes wrong. Like the machine isn't hearing that clear command and puts its hands over its ears and shouts "LA LA LA". There's nothing at all to suggest labouring or lack of revs.

So still rolling with the clutch in, in order to restart and regain power.

Sometimes, more recently a 'near miss' of same happens when I can feel a loss of power at the same point (the simultaneous actions of the shift into 1st ), accompanied by a teeny tiny backfire pop on the blip. This near miss bizzo is a new thing, since the last'fix', which makes me think there's a 'hearing' problem with the fuel delivery at that juncture, despite new injectors and plugs seemingly doing the jobbie last time.
The reason I ask is my buddy who I bought my 790 from owns the dealership and he is also the lead mechanic. He has been to the KTM school for the 790 and is an ace mechanic.

I will tell him of your trouble and see what he thinks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Oh wow that would be wonderful.

We suspect nothing was done with the ECU on his last visit, although a reset was supposed to happen. Apparently KTM Australia managed to have a look remotely, but if no faults show up, they don't touch it.
Now that the revvy startup issue has also developed, hopefully some kind of glitch might be found next time.
Of course I say this with sweet FA knowledge of electronics, especially the auto-kind. I'm running out of ideas.

One thing though... could the fitting of the heated grips have to anything to do with it? They were fitted before I picked the bike up after I bought it.
 

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When I first got my bike I had that rev-up issue on cold starts. It would only do it when the bike was stone cold. If I immediately shut it off then restarted it would idle normally.

The problem only lasted a few days. It starts normally now.

I told my buddy about it. He told me about all the parameters that the ECU looks at on start up. It blew my mind. Air temperature, barometric pressure (altitude) and a bunch of other stuff. He was thinking it may have had something to do with altitude change. I picked up the bike at sea level and trucked it home, about 400 feet above sea level.

Probably will never know what caused the revup for sure. Just glad it does not do it anymore.

Sometimes I think motor vehicles have gotten waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too complex and sophisticated for our own good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Couldn't agree more!
My K6 SV had an ECU, but compared to these days, it's fit for a Luddite LOL
 

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HJ the engine shuts down completely. Despite the gear lever being clear of my boot (suggestions of the sensor thinking it's still on it having been noted and dealt with), the clutch still in, and a positive blip of the throttle before releasing. It's the blip point where I think it all goes wrong. Like the machine isn't hearing that clear command and puts its hands over its ears and shouts "LA LA LA". There's nothing at all to suggest labouring or lack of revs.

So still rolling with the clutch in, in order to restart and regain power.

Sometimes, more recently a 'near miss' of same happens when I can feel a loss of power at the same point (the simultaneous actions of the shift into 1st ), accompanied by a teeny tiny backfire pop on the blip. This near miss bizzo is a new thing, since the last'fix', which makes me think there's a 'hearing' problem with the fuel delivery at that juncture, despite new injectors and plugs seemingly doing the jobbie last time.
Just to clarify. Is the engine dying on up shift or down shift?

To restart the engine are you using the starter or just releasing the clutch?

I want to have all the info correct before I call my buddy.
 

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Hey Essie I just got off the phone with my ace mechanic buddy. He is pretty sure the dealership did not do the initialization process properly.

His remedy for the problem is as follows.

Delete and reset all the adaptation values

Reinstall factory map.

Now this is where most dealerships screw up the process. Start up the bike and do NOT touch the throttle until the engine temp sensor shows a minimum of 80 degrees C.

If the engine should die during this process just hit the start button to relight the motor, but whatever you do do NOT touch the throttle. Don't worry if you have to hit the start button multiple times during the process.

He said this should fix most problems guys are having.

He also said that when riding the bike and coming to a stop do NOT just pull in the clutch while rolling along say at 20 mph and hold it in until you are stopped. Doing this will cause the ecu to richen up the fuel map which can lead to other issues.

Like a said earlier, this ECU system is complex beyond our realization and if not setup and used correctly can lead to problems.

Good luck and let me know what happens.

I also sent this to you on a PM.
 

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Normally resetting adaptations will do a couple things.

You can recalibrate the throttle position sensor, this sometimes helps with rough running.

You should be able to reset the fuel injection mixture adaptations but all that really does is erase the stored Lambda sensor value and starts logging them again. Usually it requires the bike to be running until the fan comes. This 'may' help with the bike cutting out at low rpm but I doubt it. This is the process Hawker described above

You can also reset adaptations for the quickshifter and relearn the values too.

I doubt there is any master reset for the ECU and really doubt reloading the fuel/throttle map will do anything at all.

Hopefully my Texa gets updated next week to support the 790 so I'll know more. I have the factory BMW system at home and it works as per the above just like most high spec modern bikes.
 

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Normally resetting adaptations will do a couple things.

You can recalibrate the throttle position sensor, this sometimes helps with rough running.

You should be able to reset the fuel injection mixture adaptations but all that really does is erase the stored Lambda sensor value and starts logging them again. Usually it requires the bike to be running until the fan comes. This 'may' help with the bike cutting out at low rpm but I doubt it. This is the process Hawker described above

You can also reset adaptations for the quickshifter and relearn the values too.
My buddy also mentioned many other adaptations like the quick shifter but my pen spun out trying to write down all he said so my post is just a distillation of the finer points.

The term he used for Essie's problem was "flame out."
 

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My buddy also mentioned many other adaptations like the quick shifter but my pen spun out trying to write down all he said so my post is just a distillation of the finer points.

The term he used for Essie's problem was "flame out."
Flame out is normally as an issue on single cylinder dirt bikes, not so much on multi cylinder road bikes but you never know!
 

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Flame out is normally as an issue on single cylinder dirt bikes, not so much on multi cylinder road bikes but you never know!
Applies to jet aircraft too. I flew jets for a living for many years.

Fortunately I never had one flame out while in flight.

Guess I led a charmed life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Just to clarify. Is the engine dying on up shift or down shift?

To restart the engine are you using the starter or just releasing the clutch?

I want to have all the info correct before I call my buddy.
Only once on the upshift when he was very new, so I'll discard that issue now, so yes, downshift, mainly into first.

Engine requires starter. Cuts right out, making the electric chuff/click sound as if stalled (not a labouring stall in practice though.). Rolling restart with starter switch with clutch still in, naturally, still being in gear.
At least he starts every time, or I'd really be in trouble LOL

Oh I should also mention that while I've never had a problem with the low speed snatchiness and simply deal with it, that did disappear with the new injectors and plugs, however it is back as well. No worse than before, just as noticeable as it was when not happening, is all.
 
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